Travel Russia Today

If you have long wished to travel across Central and Eastern Europe in luxury but without the need to dress for dinner each night the solution has arrived in the form of the Danube Express. Launched in 2008 this Hotel on Wheels appeals to anyone with a sense of adventure and a love of trains.

Departures from the train’s home base of Budapest is prefaced with champagne served in the Royal Waiting Room and breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the elegant dining car with the landscapes of Romania, Poland and Slovakia as the backdrop. Imagine waking up to a hot cup of tea or coffee delivered by a smiling cabin attendant as the outskirts of the Bulgarian city of Kazanlak slide by the window.

If you thought that train travel in Europe had to either be a back-packing experience involving a multi-country rail pass and volumes of train time-tables or was restricted to black-tie and ball gowns – think again. The Danube Express brings understated luxury to all who yearn for a private bathroom and the clickety clack of the rails to lull them to sleep each night!

It is painful for me to admit it, but Prague’s reputation as a safe and friendly city suffers due to the rampant overcharging by its cab drivers. Granted, the situation has somewhat improved since the city’s mayor, Pavel Bém, went undercover a few years ago and took a cab disguised as an Italian tourist (with a fake goatee, lots of gel in his hair and expensive sunglasses on his nose). He expected to be overcharged, but was utterly shocked when the cabbie with a disarmingly straight face asked for what was about ten times more than the real fare. Since then, the police have been closely watching and the culprits are fined or have their license suspended. Even still, it is quite common that tourists who do not understand the Czech crown and cannot gage the distances traveled in cab, end up paying outrageously more than they should.

The solution is either taking the city’s efficient public transportation or calling a reliable taxi service. The one that I always use is the AAA. You can call the number 14014, you can even send an SMS or order the service online: http://www.aaataxi.cz/Taxi-order/. The website also allows you to calculate the price of the route you are about to take.

If you cannot wait and need to hail a cab on the spot, which I strongly discourage, you need to be firm, ask for the price in advance and insist that the driver turn on the meter. The maximum price to travel from the city center to the outskirts should not be more than 730CZK/about $40 (does not include waiting- 5CZK per minute).

The following is a paid review:

New Year's celebration is coming and I was asked to offer you a great way to spend it in Russia. I talk about Baltic travel company's (located in UK) tours to Russia. So what do they have.

First of all it's guiding tours to Moscow, St. Petersburg and some other famous places. For example, choosing "Experience Russia Tour" you'll have one day to see the town where I live, Velikiy Novgorod. Program includes visiting the Kremlin and St. Sophia Cathedral, Yaroslavl Court, open-air museum Vitoslavlitsy and Cathedral of St. George. Tour's prices start at £1000 pp.

Another interesting tour is "Trans-Siberian Express". For 14 days you'll pass all Russia from West to East. You'll see Russian nature, Russian vilages, and still unexplored Eastern part of Russia.

Moscow and St. Petersburg city breaks leave you more freedom for planning your holidays. It would be mainly interesting for experienced travellers or travellers with unusual interests. Anyway, walking without guide, you can better feel the mood of the place, act like native people, make friends, and do things you can't do with a guide =). Russians are friendly to tourists, so you can be free to walk wherever you want . City breaks are much cheaper than guided tours. Prices start at £500 pp.

P.S. Happy New 2009 year =)!

St. Petersburg was a total shock to me, what a beautiful and amazing city! We arrived at the Astoria Hotel where we had views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral just outside our window; the snow covered streets and trees felt just like a scene from Dr. Zhivago! St. Petersburg is a city with an amazing architecture and history! Every sight you visit will give you testimony of the history of the creation of Russia.



I grew up thinking that Russians didn’t believe in God, but it was surprising to learn how the church went hand in hand with the emperors throughout history. To the Russians their monasteries and churches (you can see hundreds of onion domes in every city) were as important as their palaces. One can only imagine what wealth these emperors owned to be able to construct such magnificent palaces and how they were influenced by the European masters of their time in architecture and in art.

A visit to the Church on Spilled Blood or to St. Isaac’s Cathedral will leave you speechless, these are true works of art and are comparable to the finest in Italy. 
 
In modern times, I find that the people I met in St. Petersburg are very well educated and have access to the latest in modern technology. The younger generations boast the latest cell phone models, wear the latest in fashion and most of them speak English (very well).

The employees at the hotel were very well dressed and had excellent manners. I had the opportunity of talking with some of them over dinner and found that in general they are looking for a significant other, they dream of a family with children and they also dream of traveling and seeing the world outside of Russia.
 
I found that to the Russians, a perfect meal will last a couple of hours, sharing the food is just part of the experience, you must make a toast with Vodka while you are eating and it should be a compliment to the guest or to the host. In a typical Russian restaurant, lively music will be the background of hearty meals with the fruits of the region.

I found that Russians are very proud of their heritage, their history, and of their newfound wealth.

When I was in Budapest last month, my guide recommended this typical Hungarian restaurant for dinner. I had just arrived from Croatia and wanted to have some great Hungarian food so I decided to go for it.

The restaurant is called Rézkakas and it is about a 15-minute walk from the Four Seasons Gresham, which lucky for me was my home for the night. I have to say: if I did not know Rézkakas was a restaurant (my guide had pointed it out earlier in the day when we drove by it – that’s why the picture is a little blurry) I would have walked right past it.

It’s interesting how their small and discreet entrance brings you into such a beautiful ambiance, with their low lights, live music (violin, cimbalom and bass), and most importantly, their good food!

Even though I always like to try different foods from different countries, I am not so adventurous as to try a lot of different kinds of meats – I normally stick with beef, chicken or fish. However, that night I felt adventurous and decided to have their venison with a blueberry and apple tart and a scrumptious plum sauce. All I can say is WOW on the appetizer and both the main course and desert were amazing! They also have a very nice wine list.

Sitting next to me was an American couple, and between all the “Yums” and “Mmmms”, we started talking. They were also very impressed with the food, and enjoying themselves a lot.

The band played a good part in the overall fun as well. I am not sure how it all started, but at one point the clients would make whistling sounds (anything from imitating birds to REALLY complex sounds) and the violin player would repeat them, right away, on the violin!

Everyone around me seemed to be enjoying themselves so much, I could not help myself – I had to share this little secret. Just make sure to make reservations, or you may not be able to get a table.

I was fortunate to be traveling down the southern coast of Croatia last week between Split and Dubrovnik. The main road runs parallel to the coast with its dramatic cliffs dropping down to the Adriatic Sea below. The drive normally takes about four hours but I highly recommend taking a detour, if time allows.

About half way down there is a town just to the east, Narona. Here you will find a fantastic museum of the former ancient city ruled by the Romans in the 2nd century BC. The museum is built over the exact site of the excavations. A temple was discovered in 1995 which included 12 statues. Many other artifacts have also been recovered from the site. You walk over metal grids at times to look down into the original dwellings. Only about five percent of the site has been unearthed. The remaining 95 percent is still covered by homes of residents not ready to pack up their bags!

Next door is a charming little restaurant with a wood burning oven turning out delicious breads and slow cooked meats. Be sure to try the homemade walnut brandy; it will surely give a jolt if you are feeling sluggish after your meal.

As I continue down the coast I was surprised to discover I would have to go through Bosnia to reach Dubrovnik. Prices are much cheaper in Bosnia, so the be sure to make a stop at the market along the way to stock up on wine and chocolates.

Upon arrival in Moscow, we loaded our stuff into our minibus and headed out to the Golden Ring. The day was gorgeous, beautiful weather with snow on the ground… I couldn’t wait to start exploring this amazing area. I must admit the one thing I was looking forward to the most was the infamous Russian Banya.

The hotel we were staying at in the Golden Ring is known for their banyas. So after a long day and finally getting to our hotel, we prepared ourselves for the experience. A Russian banya is an unique ritual--it consists of sitting in a HOT sauna, while getting beaten with birch branches then finishing it off with a jump into a FREEZING pool-sounds fun, right?

A few of my colleagues and I headed over to our private banya for what ended up being one of the nights I will never forget. Once there, the whole process was a little intimidating but we figured while in Russia—do as the Russians. We all entered the sauna after changing into our bathing suits (some choose to go in with only a towel wrapped around them but no-one in our group did!), and determined our Moscow Manager, Constantin, was going to do the honors of being the “beater”. It is a surreal feeling sitting in 100+ degrees while being hit with branches.

When it was my turn to go, I opted to take the chicken route and stood under a bucket of cold water that was poured on me rather than voluntarily jumping into the freezing pool. Nevertheless….I got the drift.

I’m definitely glad I took the plunge and experienced a true Russian Banya. It is something that I think everyone should try out when they visit. Like I mentioned before, while in Russia—do as the Russians!

In my two seasons selling the Volga Dream the most frequently asked question has remained, “Is this boat really as deluxe as they say it is?”

In my personal opinion, the answer is yes. I loved the Volga Dream and had a wonderful experience floating lazily along the Volga River passing elderly men fishing and children throwing rocks along the banks. The sunsets are enough to take your breath away. The staff was tremendously friendly and attentive. The minute I sat down in a lounge chair on the Sun Deck a staff member was at my side asking if I needed a drink or a blanket.

The food was surprisingly tasty – a mix of traditional Russian and European cuisine. The rooms are small like all other Russian river cruisers, but very well appointed. I had my own private bathroom with a glassed in shower, blow dryer and deluxe toiletries. There was a flat screen TV on the wall showing BBC World, Animal Planet (oddly enough) and other global stations. The picture window allowed me to watch the coastline from the comfort of my room. (Main Deck Superior Cabins and above have full windows.)

The only downfall I experienced while onboard was the crowd at the buffet line. The dining room is not that big and tables are quiet close to each other making it slightly hard to navigate. The line at the buffet can get quite long and the close quarters can complicate things. Luckily most meals are plated, so you rarely have to deal with the buffet problem. The cruise operators are working to fix this problem now.

Another common complaint is the lack of activity onboard the ship. Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is not a Regent ship. It is a small vessel (carrying less than 115 passengers) built minimally to navigate through the narrow canals and locks along the Volga River. There is no casino or dance club, but there is a comfortable lounge to sit, socialize and drink as well as library with computers and books to occupy your time. I do not recommend this boat for the super active traveler, but for those who wish to relax and see all that Russia has to offer beyond Moscow and St. Petersburg, the Volga Dream is definitely dreamy.

Last month I had the opportunity to stay at the Pokrovka Suite Hotel in Moscow . I’ll admit, I went in prepared to hate the location and was a bit skeptical of the hotel itself. It has marketed itself as an all-suite hotel, but also as a design-hotel. Sometimes hotels like this come off as plastic and cheap, and sometimes just plain weird and uncomfortable. The Pokrovka Suite Hotel proved to be a pleasant surprise.

The hotel is located a solid 30 minute walk from Red Square. It’s a 10 – 15 minute walk to the closest metro station, which is on the Garden Ring. This is four (4) stops from Red Square, which then places you in the heart of Moscow. The street that runs in front of the hotel is a one way street leading away from Red Square (toward the Garden Ring) so traffic can sometimes be an issue. The positive aspect of the location is that the hotel is located in an actual neighborhood. This means that there are a variety of restaurants and cafes, all within a short walk from the hotel. The newest hot-spots are still a taxi or metro ride away, but at least you’re not isolated in a business area of the city.


This is an all-suite hotel, so accommodations range from spacious junior suites all the way to a few extravagant two-bedroom suites. All but the highest category of suites have rather small bathrooms, but excellent amenities. There is quite a bit of modern / contemporary art located throughout the hotel and the elevator wall is a photo story that is different on each floor and is meant to represent the seven stages of life. All photos are from the renowned Czech photographer, Stephan Hon. There is also very contemporary furniture by Guillaume Pichaud (that looks quite uncomfortable but is actually okay) and it’s discreetly for sale throughout the hotel.


I was worried about over-the-top or even ridiculous décor, but that worry was completely unfounded. The suites have a contemporary style, but are completely comfortable and appropriate, even for the most conservative guests!

Many will agree that exploring a country by private car is an appealing option as it allows for greater freedom, flexibility, and the chance to travel around remote and off-the-beaten-track areas. However, the current state of the roads in Romania and Bulgaria, both of which joined the European Union last year, could discourage even the most adventurous visitors. The latest Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report published by the World Economic Forum ranks both countries high for their natural and cultural resources but according to the same study the quality of the ground infrastructure in Romania and Bulgaria apparently puts them behind some less developed African and Asian countries. A typical mode of transportation in the rural areas of Romania and Bulgaria can be seen above.

Visitors to this part of the Balkans should be aware that proper highways are only few and the rest of the road network leaves much to be desired. Despite the promises preceding the parliamentary elections in both countries, most major infrastructure projects have been in a standstill following the accusations of mismanagement and corruption regarding the funding provided for these projects by the European Union. In addition, it is best to avoid self-driving in the major cities like Sofia, Varna, and Bucharest as the traffic is very hectic and jams are a regular occurrence. In the summer months, finding a parking spot in the centers of the large cities can also be a real challenge. Out in the countryside, road signs are often only in the local alphabet, which in Bulgaria means it is in Cyrillic. In the remote rural areas, one must also add the “bonus” of encountering slow-moving farm animals and horse- and donkey-drawn carts.

Undoubtedly, discovering the hidden historic and cultural charms of these countries’ remote villages, monasteries, and national parks is best done by car and quite often this is also the only option. While the central parts of the large cities are generally best explored on foot, considering using a professional driver and guide when touring the countryside is highly recommended as the added value of their local knowledge and experience will save you time and undoubtedly offset the cost of their services.

I just got back from 3 weeks of extensive traveling in Eastern Europe & Russia. To be honest, one of my favorite things in the world is shopping, so it was party time for me when I went to the Izmailovsky bazaar in Moscow. (Although I had to limit the size of my purchases or my luggage would explode – which it would have, if it wasn’t for Jade bringing back some of my stuff and Kevan with his super-handy extra duffle bag!)

The stands at Izmailovsky only take cash - but they take rubles, dollars and euros. Most of them speak some English, Spanish, Chinese and quite a few more languages that I did not even understand; just enough to make the sale. And they really want the business, so usually you can bargain with them. A general rule is that you can get the item for up to 30% lower than the asking price – the more you buy, the better the deal.

Well, I had been looking to buy a Faberge egg. You will see SO many of them in Russia – but if you see one you really like, buy it right away, because you will not find the same one again. I had seen so many beautiful eggs, but so far, none of them had sparked my eye enough to buy it. As I was strolling with Kevan, I saw a golden one that I just HAD to have - but it was bargain time, so I tried not to show my degree of interest. As I was looking at it, I also see another one that I like a lot. So I knew that my chances of getting a better price just doubled!

I looked at them for a while, and then I asked the man the price. He tells me each is $1500 rubles (roughly $60 dollars). I nod, hold them a little longer to show I’m considering, say thank you, and start walking away. After 3 steps, he yells that he will sell me both for $2500 rubles (about $100 dollars). I said I would think about it and walked away.

So we went around for a few minutes, and then returned. I told him I really liked the eggs, but I only had $80 dollars. He says he cannot sell them for that price or he will make no money, and asks me for $100 dollars. “But I only have $80 left”, I say.

I notice he really wants the sale as he asks me if I have any rubles left; I say I have 100 (about $4 dollars). He then offers me the eggs for $80 dollars and 500 rubles. I stick to my guns: “But I just don’t have that!”

So once again, I thank him and say I cannot buy them. But even before I could turn around to walk away: “Ok, ok, $80 dollars and 100 rubles.”

And the eggs were mine.

Recently, I had the good luck to be in Vienna during harvest season and was lucky enough to be able to eat in a local Heuriger. Think of a German beer-garden and replace the “beer” with “wine” and you have a Heuriger restaurant. Most of these small local restuarants are located just outside the city center, usually 20 minutes or so by taxi from the central area. Believe me – it’s worth the cost. The restaurants are all extremely casual with communal seating. Generally, you order at a counter (all the food for the night is on display), then the food is made to order for you and brought to your table.

If there is a branch of pine needles above the doorway as you enter, young, just harvested wine is available and is worth a try. At Heiuriger Welser , we enjoyed a delicious dinner of lightly fried fresh garden vegetables, delicious local salads, and a smorgasboard of fried chicken, succulent tender ham, roast pork, sausages and more. Desserts were a selection of homemade strudels. Two local musicians entertained the room and serenaded our group with a rendition of “Edelweiss” from The Sound of Music. Our entire table joined in with singing, much to the amusement of the locals! This is the perfect place to meet local residents, enjoy simple fresh food and have a glass of young wine.

My hometown’s Christmas Markets have just been listed among the 12 top markets in Europe by Travel & Leisure. It’s well deserved. No matter what your religion is, if you travel to Prague in the winter, you will enjoy browsing through the stalls filled with gifts: colorful hats, puppets, wooden toys, Christmas decorations, and much more. You will love sipping the hot spiced wine and listening to Christmas carols.

I just feel obligated to warn you about one bizarre thing regarding Christmas in Prague: the carps. In late December just before Christmas, not only at the markets, but also on almost every street corner, you will find large cisterns teeming with carps. In the US, this fresh water species is considered rather a filthy inedible bottom feeder. Not so in the Czech Republic; here it is a once-a-year delicacy that can be prepared in many different ways – in wine, with stuffing or breaded and fried. It is a question of tradition to have a great carp on your Christmas table and people stand in long lines to secure one. If you travel with kids, you should know that while it is exciting to watch the fish swimming around, you may want to protect your child from witnessing the final stages of the carp’s life – the merciless blow of the butcher’s mallet and the not so pretty gutting. The more fortunate of carps though are bought alive, kept home in the bathtubs for children to watch and learn before the family takes the carp to the river and releases him hoping that the waters of Vltava are clean enough for the fish to survive. Or, well… why should I lie to you… after the children develop a natural attachment towards the innocent creature, it is up to the father to play the butcher and kill it at home. If you make friends while you travel to Prague, ask for carp stories. Children and fathers alike will have plenty. And do try the carp. It’s delicious.

In September, I had the pleasure of traveling to Norway and visiting the quaint city of Bergen. This Unesco town still retains much of its charm. The old wharf area, known as Bryggen, showcases many of the original timber warehouses. Unfortunately, these monuments to history are slowly disappearing as they are all wood and susceptible to fires. As a matter of fact, while I was there, one of the old timber buildings a few blocks off the wharf caught fire and the plumes of smoke could be seen for miles.

The city itself, is easily walkable from the wharf to the art museums to the fish market. The fish market is a great place to wander around. Test your taste buds by tasting the wild and farm raised salmon, and see if you can taste the difference. Here is a great place also to stock up on unusual foods such as reindeer or moose sausage. The mustard with dill sauce is not be missed.

While in Bergen, I checked out the Clarion Hotel Havnekontoret-not be confused with the Clarion Admiral hotel. This hotel is not what I expected from the name Clarion. The hotel is only 2 years old and is built in the former harbor masters building.

The lobby is very chic with lots of chandeliers and velvet and purple touches (but not too over the top, it didn’t look like Prince lived there!). They maintained the original concave ceiling entryway with its beautiful murals. Guests can take the original stone stairs to the tower for great views of the harbor. The rooms all feature dark hard wood floors, leather headboards, flat screen TV's and L’ Occitane bath products. Some rooms have harbor views.

I went to Prague this last month on one of the regular yearly visits to my hometown. It is always hectic to try and see all my relatives and friends, to indulge in all the home-made delicacies that my grandmas prepare just for me and to catch up on what is new in town. This time it seemed that there is a lot of construction going on. Shiny new malls take over the beautiful historic landmarks like the functionalist building of the Czech Commercial Bank or the complex of barracks and stables from the eighteenth century on the Republic Square. This made me worried about one of my favorite little museums in Prague, the Cubist House of the Black Madonna.

I rushed through the Celetna Street to see if it’s still there. Oh well, the bookstore that used to be on the ground floor was replaced by a clothing store, but at least the Museum is still open and as far as I can tell, it is not going anywhere. Foreigners usually stop in front of this intriguing building designed by the genius functionalist and cubist architect Josef Gočár, but never venture in. Big mistake!

The permanent exhibition here is devoted to the art of the first half of the twentieth century and to Czech cubism in particular. Not many people know this but Cubism had huge influence on Czech artists, including architects – there are several Cubist buildings in Prague. The exhibition is modest as far as quantity but of such high quality that I could spend hours staring at the sculptures, paintings or even furniture by Josef Gočár, Otto Gutfreund, Josef Čapek (brother of the writer Karel), Václav Špála or Jan Zrzavý just to name a few. I love everything about this period of Czech art, it was blunt, uninhibited, intelligent and fun and, to put it simply, beautiful. If you have time in Prague, do not miss getting to know it!

Recently I had the opportunity of visiting Russia for the first time. I come from the Caribbean where our European next of kin come from “La Madre Patria” (Spain) and our vision of Europe ended just around Germany. I was a child during the Cold War, so we were educated in the perception that Russia was a “foreign” land very, very far away. As I grew up, we heard stories about the opening of countries in Eastern Europe and the fall of the Russian Empire on the news. All this felt very distant for they didn’t relate to my scope of the world.

Then, I found myself on a flight to Moscow on a familiarization trip. I had no idea what to expect. I had read a lot about St. Petersburg and Moscow but nothing I read was like what I actually found and experienced.

We arrived in Moscow and took a connecting flight to St. Petersburg. This required taking a ride from the International airport to the Domestic airport in the morning traffic and under heavy snow. First thing that shocked me as very familiar was the large crowd of people in front of the arrival door fighting for the attention of the arriving passengers. Taxi??? Need Taxi??? Come with meee, not heem!!! I wondered, am I in Russia or did they take me to a Latin American country? This felt just like arriving in any airport in Mexico or in Central or South America (except for the cold and the fur hats!!!).

We arrived in the Domestic terminal for our connecting flight and another familiar sight, people traveling with HUGE bags, boxes and suitcases. They were all covered in triple layers of transparent Saran wrap and everyone was checking their bags with no prior thought of excess baggage limitations. (Is it possible that Latino’s have Russian ancestors?) While we waited in line to check our baggage, I started people watching. You could see what a variety of ethnicity's co-exist in this country. Some people had Mongolian features, others looked very Nordic and others were very exotic, with dark hair and very light eyes.

While I was in the line waiting to check my baggage, I was checking out their outfits, their hairdos, their bags and shoes and when it was my turn, I noticed the Russian airline employees in the counter had very long fingernails decorated with colorful decals and VERY bright nail polish. The Russian ladies just love to wear very high heels and love to carry large handbags with big buckles and shiny accents. Each of them wear very bright colors, tight sexy clothes and amazing fur coats. Most of the younger women wear heavy makeup, dark eyeliner and exotic hairdos and they just love to wear really big and fancy jewelry. What a difference from how I saw the Russians in the movies!! These ladies looked just like Latinas but in a lighter shade of skin tone!

For a Latina on her first trip to Russia, I have to say, I felt totally impressed and am looking forward to returning sometime soon. The Russians and us must share a common ancestor someplace….

I am your typical American and everyone who knows me will agree with that 100%. I drive a gigantic SUV, watch Sunday football (American football!) and most of all love that I can buy all my groceries at one place- my gigantic Publix! This is not to say that when I travel, I do not indulge in some different activities, such as visiting the local market. For those of you that have not traveled outside the US borders, you are really missing out.

In nearly every foreign city, especially those in Europe, you can find a local market (typically in the town square) that sells everything from fruit to shoes. I was just in Croatia last week and we decided to visit the fruit and yummy cheese market in Split (they sell sheep cheese that is to die for). Before I go on, I want to tell you that the market is beautiful, the fruit is ripe and delicious and the shoes are Nine West- this is really a must see!

So, we entered the market, thinking this would be a leisurely stroll- boy were we wrong. One of my first encounters with a local lead to a smush and grind into my foot (OUCH!). The people shopping here mean business! The market is an everyday occurrence for the locals and just as we lose our patience and get annoyed with lines and crowds at our stores, so do they.

This beautiful novelty, so I thought, turned out to be a survival of the fittest. I was run into, stepped on and repeatedly pushed out of the way for I was only walking (not sprinting through the market). I was starting to think I took on some sort of super power that made me invisible (boy would my nephew think I was the coolest person ever). Since I am a pretty laid back person, I have to tell you that I thought this was all pretty amusing- in a painful kind of way. The day ended and fortunately I did not have to visit the Croatian hospital so all in all, it was a fun and interesting (to say the least) experience.

Do not let this deter you from the markets, they are great. I just want you to go prepared and warn you to bring your closed toed shoes and some heavy duty shoulder pads, you will need them.

I’m sure many of you, like myself, have been blessed with unruly, time consuming hair. Whether I straighten my hair or curl it, it takes at least 20-30 minutes and requires some heavy artillery such as a blow dryer, ceramic straightener, and/or curling iron. When I first started traveling overseas I had a lot of questions relating to hair and travel such as - are the blow dryers powerful enough to dry my thick mane and will my $200 straightener work in Eastern Europe and Russia if using a converter? I now have the answers to those questions and would like to enlighten all of you.

All five star hotels in Eastern Europe and Russia have blow dryers in the room or upon request at the reception desk. Whether they are powerful enough is really hit or miss as I have had both wimpy dryers and supersonic dryers. For guaranteed satisfaction, I recommend purchasing a small, but powerful dryer to take along just in case. If drying isn’t your biggest worry, stick with the hotel dryers.

Straightening can be a problem. Even with a converter, the standard European voltage is very powerful and can be damaging to your straightener. My colleagues and I have learned this the hard way having blown out two $200 straighteners and almost setting fire to a hotel room (hotel to be left unnamed). I recommend leaving your really expensive tools at home and purchasing a suitable, but less expensive model that wouldn’t leave you heartbroken if it died. Folica even sells dual voltage straighteners, which can handle the high voltage better.

My last and most important piece of advice is to always prepare for the worst. Bring hair ties, clips, and even a hat just in case you find yourself without any hair styling provisions. Being able to style our hair properly while traveling overseas is the goal - being able to look good when all equipment fails is priceless.

On a recent trip to Copenhagen I had the opportunity (and the great pleasure) to visit Nimb. Nimb is more than just a hotel - it is a concept. Having heard of this new “creation” I was actually quite surprised when we walked up to a double glass door that leads directly from the sidewalk into a small, quietly elegant reception area. There is no grand portico, driveway or even an area to pull into and the Nimb, from the street, appears to have little to draw you in.

Once inside all this changes. The reception area is simply a bellman’s like desk to one side and a huge arrangement of absolutely gorgeous flowers on a glass table in the middle of the floor.

Nimb is rather like a large estate manor, with the feel of a home and gourmands are well catered for. Apart from the Nimb Restaurant there is a Vinotek – a brickwork, basement level, wine cellar that allows guests to sit at long wooden tables and sample even the best of vintage wines by the glass accompanied by light snacks and cheeses.

Nimb also features a deli where they sell products from their own dairy. But for me the biggest attraction in the deli was the Summerbird Chocolates. I was treated to one of these on a welcome plate of chocolates and when I put that chocolate in my mouth I thought I had gone to heaven. They don’t come cheap and the best are sold the old fashioned way – individually and boxed on the spot. This means they wouldn’t last the eight days before my return to the United States and therefore my friends and colleagues only have my word for it but trust me, these chocolates are simply divine!

Opening onto the street they also have their own hot-dog stand (the surprises never end) where they serve gourmet hand-made sausages on freshly baked bread. This is known as The Grill since, after all, it is so much more than a hot dog stand but is simple and very affordable. Accompany this with the organic chocolate milk produced in the dairy – what a treat!

But the gourmet coup de grace is Restaurant Herman where executive chef Thomas Herman (a native Dane) casts his spell over his pots and ovens and creates some of the most wonderful dishes ever to grace a plate. As per the hotel, his philosophy is that eating should be a recollection whereby “everything we eat should remind us of something or someone and allows us to stay connected to the world”. With Thomas in the kitchen, guests’ recollection goes into overdrive!

When the owners closed the property and decided on a refurbishment from head to toe they wanted to achieve one look – Quality – and they have succeeded in a big way. Even if you don’t stay here you should visit one of the restaurants. Restaurant Herman doesn’t come cheap and a full quality gourmet experience will run you about $400.00 per person. Lesser options are possible and Restaurant Nimb has an ever-changing menu that is quite affordable. At the Vinotek you can sip on a glass of wine and imagine you are in a winery in France but whatever you do, don’t miss out on one of those chocolates in the deli – I guarantee you won’t be able to stop at just one.

See it in January and February at the Estates Theater

The people of Prague take great pride in the fact that Mozart felt so good in their city that he said: “My Praguers understand me.” They love music and relish in the claim that every Czech is a musician. I am the exception to this rule, although I do love music. I also love surprises and crazy ideas. A famous Czech musician, Martin Smolka, and a popular actor and screenwriter, Jaroslav Dusek, came up with such an idea a few years ago. They created a unique opera inspired by the victory of the Czech Ice-Hockey Team at the Winter Olympics in Nagano.
An opera about ice hockey! It is an outlandish idea, right? But if you think about it, operas tell a love story, celebrate heroes, and culminate in a tragedy or victory and, for Czechs, Nagano was exactly that; a love story of mythical proportions – almost a century long obsession with hockey. A Czech hero of the 20th century – the genius goalkeeper Dominik Hasek whom some wanted as the next Czech president is the opera’s hero, defending his goal with a powerful counter-tenor. And finally a victory that was celebrated by thousands of fans crowding the Old Town Square and boosted national pride that is usually nonexistent among my countrymen.
The Opera Nagano (in three periods and overtime) premiered at The Estates Theater in 2004 and is now coming back to mark the 10th Anniversary of that epic victory in 1998. If you travel to Prague in January or February, you should not miss it. It will not only give you an insight into the psyche of those gloomy looking Czechs, but will surprise you with beautiful music, unexpected stage setting and costumes and especially, the great sense of humor.

The Torne River runs along the border of Sweden and Finland and is the location of the annual novelty, the Ice Hotel. But you don’t have to travel to Sweden in the dead of winter to experience the crystal clear ice that this river produces. Year round the sparkling clear ice formed by the waters of the Torne are on display at the Ice Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel in Stockholm.


Sponsored by Absolut Vodka, the Ice bar gives a whole new meaning to “on the rocks”. Hollowed out cubes of ice serve as the vessels for a variety of flavored vodkas and eliminate the need for traditional ice cubes. These ready to serve glasses of ice are stacked on “glass clear” ice shelves behind a full size bar completely constructed of ice and surrounded by walls, and tables all made of ice.

No bar stools to stick to! Don’t worry – an arctic style parka prevents frostbite and woolen knit gloves keep you toasty and warm throughout the experience. Of course you can remove a glove and tempt the ice glass to stick to your fingers or leave the imprint of your hand on the wall for posterity but most visitors find it hard to leave their hand against the glistening ice for long enough to melt an impression. The bar provides a party like atmosphere with club lighting and music that ranges from Abba (of course) to some of Sweden’s more modern pop stars.

The bar menu consists of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Vodka straight is favored by many but it can also be mixed with a variety of fruit drinks to create a fun cocktail. In between sips of the throat warming vodka the vast majority of guests spend their time taking photographs of themselves and their friends.

The crowd is incredibly international – the night we were there the 60 or so people (maximum allowed in at one time) consisted of Australians, Japanese, Chinese, Americans, Argentineans and almost every European country all giggling and laughing at this novel phenom that will be a highlight of any visit to Stockholm. Despite the provision of warm upper clothing, your shoes are yours and at 23 degrees Fahrenheit flimsy soles will soon have you beating a retreat for the exit!

I stood in the center of The Amber Room in the Catherine Palace of Tsarskoye Selo near St. Petersburg, Russia – admiring the beautiful reconstruction of the room, which was rededicated in 2003. The Amber Room is constructed entirely of amber panels - from ceiling to floor. The effect is singular and spectacular. The Nazis looted the original Amber room during WWII and the whereabouts of its contents still remains a mystery.

While standing in that room on August 7, 2008, I took a piece of paper out of my back pocket. The paper was a copy of notes my grandmother wrote on her cruise ship stationary from the M/S Pilsudski on August 15, 1936. My grandmother stood in the same room almost 72 years, to the day, earlier. My grandmother of course saw the original room.

Both sides of my family come from Russia. 2008 marked the 100-year anniversary of my mother’s side of the family emigrating from Russia to America, so on this recent trip I was able to enjoy a double dose of historical connection to this fascinating country. What a treat!

I just had the opportunity to fly Austrian Airlines’ new business class from JFK to Vienna. Normally, I never notice the uniforms of the flight attendants. However, Austrian’s are in unrelieved red – red jacket, red vest, red shirt, etc. This carries on right to their red shoes and stockings. All this red is accented by a robin’s egg blue scarf. A very interesting outfit…



The new seats are quite comfortable and lie flat at the push of one button, allowing for a very comfortable night’s sleep. Food in business class is some of the best I’ve had and is catered by DO & CO International. A chef travels on board with you to see to your every food whim. The selection of wine and drinks was also extensive.

All in all, my flying experience was very pleasant I urge you to try the new Austrian!

Before our trip to Poland, my colleague Gwen and I decided that it would be a good idea to also visit the neighboring Belarus. The most efficient way to get there was crossing the border near Bialystok and spending a day in Grodno, a city that used to be home to a thriving Jewish community and an important political and cultural center of the Polish- Lithuanian Commonwealth. Today, it is a sleepy town that will surprise you by its cleanliness and order, undoubtedly resulting from the tight political control of the Belarusian (read Russian) government.

I could tell you about the day we spent there, and it was an interesting and emotional one – from the stern border control, to our visit to the only preserved Synagogue and the unmarked mass grave of Grodno’s 20,000 Jews killed by the Nazis, to my heated political debate with our Pro-Putin driver and Anti-Putin guide, to the delicious herring I mixed for myself at a great local restaurant.

Instead, I will tell you about our train ride back to Bialystok.

At the train station, as we were approaching the narrow door of the passport control, we could sense our journey back to Poland would be far from dull. Equipped with black tape, several young Belarusians were engaging in the most bizarre activity: taping together packets of cigarettes into thin, almost 5 feet long stripes and carrying them through the passport control under the disinterested noses of the Belarusian officers. When asked what this is all about, our guide, a Professor at the Grodno University, smiled mysteriously: You will see. And so we did.

During the first forty five minutes of our train ride before the border, an incredibly well organized commando of about 15 young men and women equipped with screwdrivers essentially took apart the train carriage, unscrewing every plywood board on the walls, every lamp and every tube and pushed tons and tons of cigarette packs into every hole, cavity and nook possible. As we watched in astonishment, one of the girls asked us, very politely, to move so that she could make use of our seats.

At the border, the nicotine traffickers metamorphosed into innocent looking travelers and nonchalantly opened their bags for the Polish border officers to check for any illegal content (such as a large amount of cheap Belarusian cigarettes). During the hour long wait at the border, everybody had to leave the train and the Polish officers went through every wagon. As I watched them bringing out only two bags of seized cigarettes, I had to wonder if this was just a symbolic act on their part.

We got back on the train, the smugglers drew their screwdrivers and methodically retrieved their cargo. It was an efficient and smooth operation, but it seemed like way too much effort just to sell cigarettes. I had to ask, how much is in this for you? The answer was: $150.

This past July I was lucky enough to travel through Eastern Europe with my fun and at times, wild colleagues, Leigh and Kevan. After some time in Vienna, we decided to take a train to Budapest. Since I had never been on a high-speed train, I was quite eager to begin the journey. What an experience—easy, smooth and surprise, surprise, super quick!

Once the train departed the station, we decided to try the food in the dining car (I know, I know we are quite adventurous). One thing to note is that the train does not accept credit cards or US dollars on board- only Euros and Forints. Who doesn’t accept credit cards? Unfortunately, Leigh and I did not have any euros but we were lucky to have our savvy traveler Kevan with us. Kevan had exchanged some money for euros but with the exchange rates being where they are now he did not get much!

Now imagine, three Americans sitting there staring at the menu just hoping that we had enough euros to pay for everyone. After ordering and receiving the bill, we realized that we could pay the whole bill and then some. Needless to say the “then some” was another round of drinks for each of us!

Upon arrival in Budapest, we were greeted by our driver and taken to the amazing Four Seasons Gresham Palace. What a hotel!

The staff is top notch, the service is impeccable and the view from our room was exquisite. There is nothing like opening up your curtains and looking out onto the Danube River. Our time to get to Budapest was great and the time spent there was even better. Each of us cannot wait to go back!

As the Director of Special Projects at Exeter International I get to be part of some pretty interesting travel projects. This most recent one was one of my favorites. I traveled with Greg Tepper, President of Exeter International and the famous travel photographer, Rob Howard , Rob’s wife Lisa and a couple of friends. The purpose of the trip was to get some beautiful photographs to adorn the pages of this year’s brochure. Rob did not disappoint and people will be impressed with the images he captured along the way.

We traveled to St. Petersburg, Riga, Warsaw, Krakow, Vienna and Bratislava. If it sounds exhausting – it was. It was also exciting and exhilarating.

In St. Petersburg we stayed at the very luxurious Taleon Imperial Hotel, A Leading Hotels of the World property. Every luxury hotel has its charms and extravagances that make it particularly memorable. My travel companions raved about the charming rooms, the perfect central location, the beautiful blue marble of the lobby floor, and the view of Kazan Cathedral from the restaurant as we enjoyed our lavish breakfasts each morning. I spotted something else that made my stay very memorable – something so subtle but yet so very important to travel weary guests.

At midnight each evening – a hotel staff member changes the carpets in the elevators. The beautiful blue and gold carpets have the day of the week woven into them. I’m serious. Isn’t that the definition of a luxury touch in a hotel – when you say to yourself – I would love to have a view like this, a shower like this, a comforter like this etc? Well – I couldn’t help but think - I want someone to change my welcome mats at home, with the day of the week woven into them, each day, so I don’t forget what day it is. I”ll check and see if they have them at Lowe’s this weekend – I suspect I will have to continue to rely on my calendar.

After every visit to Romania, I cannot help noticing how quickly the country is changing from an obscure Balkan territory ruled by ruthless tyrants like Vlad Tepes and Nicolae Ceausescu into a popular destination famous for its magnificent architectural monuments, authentic local culture, and friendly and welcoming people. Despite the fact that most visitors come to Romania to see the sights associated (sometimes wrongly) with Count Dracula, the country has so much more to offer, so the sooner one gets over the ‘vampire country’ pop-culture stereotype, the more rewarding and enriching their experience will be.

As is the case with traveling to most ex-Communist countries, arriving and staying with an open mind is absolutely essential. Ever since it joined the European Union in January 2007, the Romanian infrastructure has been getting a much-needed face lift, but many of the remote (and most charming) regions like Maramures and Southern Bucovina are only accessible via local roads which are still in bad condition. Currently, even in the capital city of Bucharest, many of the buildings in the city center are undergoing dramatic restoration and some streets are closed for renovation as well.

Being a discerning and broad-minded traveler in Romania also means that your daily travel plans should be fairly flexible. Just because a guidebook or a website (or even your local guide) says that a certain small church or village museum is open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, this might not be the case when you arrive there. Do not let the handwritten (in Romanian) ‘out for lunch’ sign on the front door spoil your entire day, but rather accept it as part of the cultural experience and either move on or come back later.

Maybe you wanted to roam the ruins of the Poienari Castle – one of the few fortresses historically linked to Vlad Dracula, just to find out that the only way to reach it is by climbing some 1,500 steps uphill. Settle for a drive-by and continue your exploration of Transylvania, where many more medieval ruins and fortified churches are waiting to be discovered.

With open minds and a little flexibility, travelers can grasp the spirit and raw charm of an emerging Romania, which is an experience unlike those of the polished tourist areas of western Europe.

It is outside the capital city of Yerevan, that Armenia truly beckons the traveler. There are monasteries; LOTS of monasteries and after three days you will hope to never see another monastery for a very, very long time.

Each is unique and beautiful and each has a story to tell. Some of the monasteries sell locally produced honey, which is absolutely delicious. The big decision is whether you take the risk of having it leak into your suitcase so that Aunt Mary can have a taste or simply eating it all during your stay. I ate it all!

A couple of hours north is Noravank – one of the most peaceful and stunningly located monasteries I have ever seen. If you are lucky, the local priest might be on site and if you are even luckier he might sing for you. His voice fills the small church and resonates from the smoke-blackened walls – this is the stuff goosebumps are made of!

Other sites not to be missed around Yerevan are the Gerhard Cave Monastery and the Temple of Garni. We were given a private concert by a quintet (more goosebumps) and the history accorded to these sites is truly fascinating.

Armenia shares its northern border with the Republic of Georgia making for an ideal opportunity to pair these two countries in the same trip.

“East is East, and West is West, and never the twain shall meet”
- Rudyard Kipling

Was Kipling thinking about the Ukraine when he wrote this? Even the name of the country, Ukraine, if translated means ‘Borderland’. High-end fashion, new, trendy restaurants, and countless museums and cultural attractions have made Kiev the most sought after city of the Ukraine. I agree this is a wonderful city where one will find all the eases and comforts of the western world but when I travel I want to go deeper, go different, don’t you? If you are like me and want a real treat, visit Lviv.

Located just 6 hours from Kiev, you will find a charming city full of character, atmosphere, and above all great coffee. Be sure to take a break from the touring and take a seat in one of those small family style coffeehouses scattered in the historical center and enjoy a cup of Lviv coffee. The Lviv Coffee Factory opened in 1971 and has since been pouring the “good stuff” to all those that visit.

During my visits to Lviv I always make time to enjoy my good ole' “Cup of Joe”- black, no cream! I also order one (only to start, of course) of the tarts that are always staring at me with their enticing eyes and come hither smell. They always look so lonely on their shelf under the register so being the nice guy that I am, I always rescue 1 (alright you got me- 2). At times, I stop to think about my waistline but come on, indulging is so much more fun and adventurous!

After your mid-morning snack, go out and explore this beautiful city with a visit to Ploshcha Rynok (market square), the Dominican Roman Catholic Church and the Galician Seym (Parliament). After your discovery mission has ended, find a nice café and enjoy a leisurely and relaxed lunch. One tip of advice for your lunch – order the borscht! This may be your only chance in life to enjoy an authentic (and delicious) bowl of borscht and be sure to ask for extra sour cream.

Lviv will enchant you, go be enchanted...

I recently visited Moscow and had the opportunity to check out the city’s current hip and happening places. Where to see and be seen in Moscow is constantly changing and what was hot last month may be cold this month.

This month, I recommend trying the sushi at the uber trendy Nadalny Vostok (Not that Far East) Restaurant. Not that I don’t love Pelmeni and Borscht, but the sushi was fantastic and such a refreshing change from traditional Russian food. My colleague had steak and loved it, while another in our group ordered pasta. The menu is vast and a little expensive, but isn’t everything in Moscow?

After sushi, head over to the Ritz Carlton’s rooftop 0₂ Lounge for cocktails. While sipping your gin and tonic or Russian pivo (beer), you can enjoy panoramic views over Red Square and the Kremlin. I walked into the lounge and I thought I had stepped onto another planet. The spherical chairs lining the windows and the white leather couches create an “out of this world” ambience. Check it out under dining.

If you’re not into the five-star hotel lounge scene, go to Simachev Bar. This is designer Denis Simachev’s latest venture and you can walk to it from anywhere in the center of the city. I won’t ruin it by giving too many details, but let’s just say that the controversial décor and unique furnishings are a must-see. I had a very tasty berry mojito and was pleased to see that they have a full menu of light fare including salads and pizzas at very reasonable prices. The music was fun and the people were friendly and casual.

Last month I went to Tbilisi, Georgia, where I hadn’t been in a long time…and things have changed! Tbilisi is now a thriving capital city (not the sleepy town of 1990) conveniently located within driving distance of most of the top historic sites of the country. The past few years have brought several luxury, Western-managed hotels, so travelers have many options now- not inexpensive (expect to pay approx. $250 to $350 per night at the better hotels), but the comfort offered will be exactly what more demanding travelers expect. The Marriott Tbilisi (where I stayed) is a former grand dame hotel in the center of the city, recently restored to its former glory. The Marriott will be the place to stay until a raft of new, luxury hotels open in the next few years: Inter-Continental, Park Hyatt and Kempinski (in the former House of Communists!).

The historic sites are what make Georgia so fascinating. The monasteries to the north (dating to the 13th century) are stunning in their mountainous setting. Stalin’s birthplace (Gori) is unforgettable- my guide in the Stalin Museum was clearly still enamored with the fallen Soviet leader (even though most Georgians no longer admire Stalin). The town of Gori is seemingly frozen in time and you can easily feel that it is 1960 and the Soviet Union is entering its prime.

Shopping for antiques (I found a 150-year old Persian carpet for a steal) is unforgettable in Tbilisi. The Old Town hasn’t changed in at least 100 years and all visitors will want to take at least a full afternoon to stroll the streets (and shop).

For me, one of the great highlights of going to Georgia is the food: simply the best vegetables, fresh chicken, nut sauces and khachapuri (soft cheesy bread- a sort of cheese-filled pizza without the toppings- ) I have ever found (and I travel a lot!). Since Georgia dropped its visa requirement for many countries, including the US, now is the time to go.