Travel Russia Today

If you have long wished to travel across Central and Eastern Europe in luxury but without the need to dress for dinner each night the solution has arrived in the form of the Danube Express. Launched in 2008 this Hotel on Wheels appeals to anyone with a sense of adventure and a love of trains.

Departures from the train’s home base of Budapest is prefaced with champagne served in the Royal Waiting Room and breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the elegant dining car with the landscapes of Romania, Poland and Slovakia as the backdrop. Imagine waking up to a hot cup of tea or coffee delivered by a smiling cabin attendant as the outskirts of the Bulgarian city of Kazanlak slide by the window.

If you thought that train travel in Europe had to either be a back-packing experience involving a multi-country rail pass and volumes of train time-tables or was restricted to black-tie and ball gowns – think again. The Danube Express brings understated luxury to all who yearn for a private bathroom and the clickety clack of the rails to lull them to sleep each night!

It is painful for me to admit it, but Prague’s reputation as a safe and friendly city suffers due to the rampant overcharging by its cab drivers. Granted, the situation has somewhat improved since the city’s mayor, Pavel Bém, went undercover a few years ago and took a cab disguised as an Italian tourist (with a fake goatee, lots of gel in his hair and expensive sunglasses on his nose). He expected to be overcharged, but was utterly shocked when the cabbie with a disarmingly straight face asked for what was about ten times more than the real fare. Since then, the police have been closely watching and the culprits are fined or have their license suspended. Even still, it is quite common that tourists who do not understand the Czech crown and cannot gage the distances traveled in cab, end up paying outrageously more than they should.

The solution is either taking the city’s efficient public transportation or calling a reliable taxi service. The one that I always use is the AAA. You can call the number 14014, you can even send an SMS or order the service online: http://www.aaataxi.cz/Taxi-order/. The website also allows you to calculate the price of the route you are about to take.

If you cannot wait and need to hail a cab on the spot, which I strongly discourage, you need to be firm, ask for the price in advance and insist that the driver turn on the meter. The maximum price to travel from the city center to the outskirts should not be more than 730CZK/about $40 (does not include waiting- 5CZK per minute).

The following is a paid review:

New Year's celebration is coming and I was asked to offer you a great way to spend it in Russia. I talk about Baltic travel company's (located in UK) tours to Russia. So what do they have.

First of all it's guiding tours to Moscow, St. Petersburg and some other famous places. For example, choosing "Experience Russia Tour" you'll have one day to see the town where I live, Velikiy Novgorod. Program includes visiting the Kremlin and St. Sophia Cathedral, Yaroslavl Court, open-air museum Vitoslavlitsy and Cathedral of St. George. Tour's prices start at £1000 pp.

Another interesting tour is "Trans-Siberian Express". For 14 days you'll pass all Russia from West to East. You'll see Russian nature, Russian vilages, and still unexplored Eastern part of Russia.

Moscow and St. Petersburg city breaks leave you more freedom for planning your holidays. It would be mainly interesting for experienced travellers or travellers with unusual interests. Anyway, walking without guide, you can better feel the mood of the place, act like native people, make friends, and do things you can't do with a guide =). Russians are friendly to tourists, so you can be free to walk wherever you want . City breaks are much cheaper than guided tours. Prices start at £500 pp.

P.S. Happy New 2009 year =)!

St. Petersburg was a total shock to me, what a beautiful and amazing city! We arrived at the Astoria Hotel where we had views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral just outside our window; the snow covered streets and trees felt just like a scene from Dr. Zhivago! St. Petersburg is a city with an amazing architecture and history! Every sight you visit will give you testimony of the history of the creation of Russia.



I grew up thinking that Russians didn’t believe in God, but it was surprising to learn how the church went hand in hand with the emperors throughout history. To the Russians their monasteries and churches (you can see hundreds of onion domes in every city) were as important as their palaces. One can only imagine what wealth these emperors owned to be able to construct such magnificent palaces and how they were influenced by the European masters of their time in architecture and in art.

A visit to the Church on Spilled Blood or to St. Isaac’s Cathedral will leave you speechless, these are true works of art and are comparable to the finest in Italy. 
 
In modern times, I find that the people I met in St. Petersburg are very well educated and have access to the latest in modern technology. The younger generations boast the latest cell phone models, wear the latest in fashion and most of them speak English (very well).

The employees at the hotel were very well dressed and had excellent manners. I had the opportunity of talking with some of them over dinner and found that in general they are looking for a significant other, they dream of a family with children and they also dream of traveling and seeing the world outside of Russia.
 
I found that to the Russians, a perfect meal will last a couple of hours, sharing the food is just part of the experience, you must make a toast with Vodka while you are eating and it should be a compliment to the guest or to the host. In a typical Russian restaurant, lively music will be the background of hearty meals with the fruits of the region.

I found that Russians are very proud of their heritage, their history, and of their newfound wealth.

When I was in Budapest last month, my guide recommended this typical Hungarian restaurant for dinner. I had just arrived from Croatia and wanted to have some great Hungarian food so I decided to go for it.

The restaurant is called Rézkakas and it is about a 15-minute walk from the Four Seasons Gresham, which lucky for me was my home for the night. I have to say: if I did not know Rézkakas was a restaurant (my guide had pointed it out earlier in the day when we drove by it – that’s why the picture is a little blurry) I would have walked right past it.

It’s interesting how their small and discreet entrance brings you into such a beautiful ambiance, with their low lights, live music (violin, cimbalom and bass), and most importantly, their good food!

Even though I always like to try different foods from different countries, I am not so adventurous as to try a lot of different kinds of meats – I normally stick with beef, chicken or fish. However, that night I felt adventurous and decided to have their venison with a blueberry and apple tart and a scrumptious plum sauce. All I can say is WOW on the appetizer and both the main course and desert were amazing! They also have a very nice wine list.

Sitting next to me was an American couple, and between all the “Yums” and “Mmmms”, we started talking. They were also very impressed with the food, and enjoying themselves a lot.

The band played a good part in the overall fun as well. I am not sure how it all started, but at one point the clients would make whistling sounds (anything from imitating birds to REALLY complex sounds) and the violin player would repeat them, right away, on the violin!

Everyone around me seemed to be enjoying themselves so much, I could not help myself – I had to share this little secret. Just make sure to make reservations, or you may not be able to get a table.

I was fortunate to be traveling down the southern coast of Croatia last week between Split and Dubrovnik. The main road runs parallel to the coast with its dramatic cliffs dropping down to the Adriatic Sea below. The drive normally takes about four hours but I highly recommend taking a detour, if time allows.

About half way down there is a town just to the east, Narona. Here you will find a fantastic museum of the former ancient city ruled by the Romans in the 2nd century BC. The museum is built over the exact site of the excavations. A temple was discovered in 1995 which included 12 statues. Many other artifacts have also been recovered from the site. You walk over metal grids at times to look down into the original dwellings. Only about five percent of the site has been unearthed. The remaining 95 percent is still covered by homes of residents not ready to pack up their bags!

Next door is a charming little restaurant with a wood burning oven turning out delicious breads and slow cooked meats. Be sure to try the homemade walnut brandy; it will surely give a jolt if you are feeling sluggish after your meal.

As I continue down the coast I was surprised to discover I would have to go through Bosnia to reach Dubrovnik. Prices are much cheaper in Bosnia, so the be sure to make a stop at the market along the way to stock up on wine and chocolates.

Upon arrival in Moscow, we loaded our stuff into our minibus and headed out to the Golden Ring. The day was gorgeous, beautiful weather with snow on the ground… I couldn’t wait to start exploring this amazing area. I must admit the one thing I was looking forward to the most was the infamous Russian Banya.

The hotel we were staying at in the Golden Ring is known for their banyas. So after a long day and finally getting to our hotel, we prepared ourselves for the experience. A Russian banya is an unique ritual--it consists of sitting in a HOT sauna, while getting beaten with birch branches then finishing it off with a jump into a FREEZING pool-sounds fun, right?

A few of my colleagues and I headed over to our private banya for what ended up being one of the nights I will never forget. Once there, the whole process was a little intimidating but we figured while in Russia—do as the Russians. We all entered the sauna after changing into our bathing suits (some choose to go in with only a towel wrapped around them but no-one in our group did!), and determined our Moscow Manager, Constantin, was going to do the honors of being the “beater”. It is a surreal feeling sitting in 100+ degrees while being hit with branches.

When it was my turn to go, I opted to take the chicken route and stood under a bucket of cold water that was poured on me rather than voluntarily jumping into the freezing pool. Nevertheless….I got the drift.

I’m definitely glad I took the plunge and experienced a true Russian Banya. It is something that I think everyone should try out when they visit. Like I mentioned before, while in Russia—do as the Russians!

In my two seasons selling the Volga Dream the most frequently asked question has remained, “Is this boat really as deluxe as they say it is?”

In my personal opinion, the answer is yes. I loved the Volga Dream and had a wonderful experience floating lazily along the Volga River passing elderly men fishing and children throwing rocks along the banks. The sunsets are enough to take your breath away. The staff was tremendously friendly and attentive. The minute I sat down in a lounge chair on the Sun Deck a staff member was at my side asking if I needed a drink or a blanket.

The food was surprisingly tasty – a mix of traditional Russian and European cuisine. The rooms are small like all other Russian river cruisers, but very well appointed. I had my own private bathroom with a glassed in shower, blow dryer and deluxe toiletries. There was a flat screen TV on the wall showing BBC World, Animal Planet (oddly enough) and other global stations. The picture window allowed me to watch the coastline from the comfort of my room. (Main Deck Superior Cabins and above have full windows.)

The only downfall I experienced while onboard was the crowd at the buffet line. The dining room is not that big and tables are quiet close to each other making it slightly hard to navigate. The line at the buffet can get quite long and the close quarters can complicate things. Luckily most meals are plated, so you rarely have to deal with the buffet problem. The cruise operators are working to fix this problem now.

Another common complaint is the lack of activity onboard the ship. Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is not a Regent ship. It is a small vessel (carrying less than 115 passengers) built minimally to navigate through the narrow canals and locks along the Volga River. There is no casino or dance club, but there is a comfortable lounge to sit, socialize and drink as well as library with computers and books to occupy your time. I do not recommend this boat for the super active traveler, but for those who wish to relax and see all that Russia has to offer beyond Moscow and St. Petersburg, the Volga Dream is definitely dreamy.

Last month I had the opportunity to stay at the Pokrovka Suite Hotel in Moscow . I’ll admit, I went in prepared to hate the location and was a bit skeptical of the hotel itself. It has marketed itself as an all-suite hotel, but also as a design-hotel. Sometimes hotels like this come off as plastic and cheap, and sometimes just plain weird and uncomfortable. The Pokrovka Suite Hotel proved to be a pleasant surprise.

The hotel is located a solid 30 minute walk from Red Square. It’s a 10 – 15 minute walk to the closest metro station, which is on the Garden Ring. This is four (4) stops from Red Square, which then places you in the heart of Moscow. The street that runs in front of the hotel is a one way street leading away from Red Square (toward the Garden Ring) so traffic can sometimes be an issue. The positive aspect of the location is that the hotel is located in an actual neighborhood. This means that there are a variety of restaurants and cafes, all within a short walk from the hotel. The newest hot-spots are still a taxi or metro ride away, but at least you’re not isolated in a business area of the city.


This is an all-suite hotel, so accommodations range from spacious junior suites all the way to a few extravagant two-bedroom suites. All but the highest category of suites have rather small bathrooms, but excellent amenities. There is quite a bit of modern / contemporary art located throughout the hotel and the elevator wall is a photo story that is different on each floor and is meant to represent the seven stages of life. All photos are from the renowned Czech photographer, Stephan Hon. There is also very contemporary furniture by Guillaume Pichaud (that looks quite uncomfortable but is actually okay) and it’s discreetly for sale throughout the hotel.


I was worried about over-the-top or even ridiculous décor, but that worry was completely unfounded. The suites have a contemporary style, but are completely comfortable and appropriate, even for the most conservative guests!

Many will agree that exploring a country by private car is an appealing option as it allows for greater freedom, flexibility, and the chance to travel around remote and off-the-beaten-track areas. However, the current state of the roads in Romania and Bulgaria, both of which joined the European Union last year, could discourage even the most adventurous visitors. The latest Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report published by the World Economic Forum ranks both countries high for their natural and cultural resources but according to the same study the quality of the ground infrastructure in Romania and Bulgaria apparently puts them behind some less developed African and Asian countries. A typical mode of transportation in the rural areas of Romania and Bulgaria can be seen above.

Visitors to this part of the Balkans should be aware that proper highways are only few and the rest of the road network leaves much to be desired. Despite the promises preceding the parliamentary elections in both countries, most major infrastructure projects have been in a standstill following the accusations of mismanagement and corruption regarding the funding provided for these projects by the European Union. In addition, it is best to avoid self-driving in the major cities like Sofia, Varna, and Bucharest as the traffic is very hectic and jams are a regular occurrence. In the summer months, finding a parking spot in the centers of the large cities can also be a real challenge. Out in the countryside, road signs are often only in the local alphabet, which in Bulgaria means it is in Cyrillic. In the remote rural areas, one must also add the “bonus” of encountering slow-moving farm animals and horse- and donkey-drawn carts.

Undoubtedly, discovering the hidden historic and cultural charms of these countries’ remote villages, monasteries, and national parks is best done by car and quite often this is also the only option. While the central parts of the large cities are generally best explored on foot, considering using a professional driver and guide when touring the countryside is highly recommended as the added value of their local knowledge and experience will save you time and undoubtedly offset the cost of their services.

I just got back from 3 weeks of extensive traveling in Eastern Europe & Russia. To be honest, one of my favorite things in the world is shopping, so it was party time for me when I went to the Izmailovsky bazaar in Moscow. (Although I had to limit the size of my purchases or my luggage would explode – which it would have, if it wasn’t for Jade bringing back some of my stuff and Kevan with his super-handy extra duffle bag!)

The stands at Izmailovsky only take cash - but they take rubles, dollars and euros. Most of them speak some English, Spanish, Chinese and quite a few more languages that I did not even understand; just enough to make the sale. And they really want the business, so usually you can bargain with them. A general rule is that you can get the item for up to 30% lower than the asking price – the more you buy, the better the deal.

Well, I had been looking to buy a Faberge egg. You will see SO many of them in Russia – but if you see one you really like, buy it right away, because you will not find the same one again. I had seen so many beautiful eggs, but so far, none of them had sparked my eye enough to buy it. As I was strolling with Kevan, I saw a golden one that I just HAD to have - but it was bargain time, so I tried not to show my degree of interest. As I was looking at it, I also see another one that I like a lot. So I knew that my chances of getting a better price just doubled!

I looked at them for a while, and then I asked the man the price. He tells me each is $1500 rubles (roughly $60 dollars). I nod, hold them a little longer to show I’m considering, say thank you, and start walking away. After 3 steps, he yells that he will sell me both for $2500 rubles (about $100 dollars). I said I would think about it and walked away.

So we went around for a few minutes, and then returned. I told him I really liked the eggs, but I only had $80 dollars. He says he cannot sell them for that price or he will make no money, and asks me for $100 dollars. “But I only have $80 left”, I say.

I notice he really wants the sale as he asks me if I have any rubles left; I say I have 100 (about $4 dollars). He then offers me the eggs for $80 dollars and 500 rubles. I stick to my guns: “But I just don’t have that!”

So once again, I thank him and say I cannot buy them. But even before I could turn around to walk away: “Ok, ok, $80 dollars and 100 rubles.”

And the eggs were mine.

Recently, I had the good luck to be in Vienna during harvest season and was lucky enough to be able to eat in a local Heuriger. Think of a German beer-garden and replace the “beer” with “wine” and you have a Heuriger restaurant. Most of these small local restuarants are located just outside the city center, usually 20 minutes or so by taxi from the central area. Believe me – it’s worth the cost. The restaurants are all extremely casual with communal seating. Generally, you order at a counter (all the food for the night is on display), then the food is made to order for you and brought to your table.

If there is a branch of pine needles above the doorway as you enter, young, just harvested wine is available and is worth a try. At Heiuriger Welser , we enjoyed a delicious dinner of lightly fried fresh garden vegetables, delicious local salads, and a smorgasboard of fried chicken, succulent tender ham, roast pork, sausages and more. Desserts were a selection of homemade strudels. Two local musicians entertained the room and serenaded our group with a rendition of “Edelweiss” from The Sound of Music. Our entire table joined in with singing, much to the amusement of the locals! This is the perfect place to meet local residents, enjoy simple fresh food and have a glass of young wine.

My hometown’s Christmas Markets have just been listed among the 12 top markets in Europe by Travel & Leisure. It’s well deserved. No matter what your religion is, if you travel to Prague in the winter, you will enjoy browsing through the stalls filled with gifts: colorful hats, puppets, wooden toys, Christmas decorations, and much more. You will love sipping the hot spiced wine and listening to Christmas carols.

I just feel obligated to warn you about one bizarre thing regarding Christmas in Prague: the carps. In late December just before Christmas, not only at the markets, but also on almost every street corner, you will find large cisterns teeming with carps. In the US, this fresh water species is considered rather a filthy inedible bottom feeder. Not so in the Czech Republic; here it is a once-a-year delicacy that can be prepared in many different ways – in wine, with stuffing or breaded and fried. It is a question of tradition to have a great carp on your Christmas table and people stand in long lines to secure one. If you travel with kids, you should know that while it is exciting to watch the fish swimming around, you may want to protect your child from witnessing the final stages of the carp’s life – the merciless blow of the butcher’s mallet and the not so pretty gutting. The more fortunate of carps though are bought alive, kept home in the bathtubs for children to watch and learn before the family takes the carp to the river and releases him hoping that the waters of Vltava are clean enough for the fish to survive. Or, well… why should I lie to you… after the children develop a natural attachment towards the innocent creature, it is up to the father to play the butcher and kill it at home. If you make friends while you travel to Prague, ask for carp stories. Children and fathers alike will have plenty. And do try the carp. It’s delicious.