Travel Russia Today

Upon arrival in Moscow, we loaded our stuff into our minibus and headed out to the Golden Ring. The day was gorgeous, beautiful weather with snow on the ground… I couldn’t wait to start exploring this amazing area. I must admit the one thing I was looking forward to the most was the infamous Russian Banya.

The hotel we were staying at in the Golden Ring is known for their banyas. So after a long day and finally getting to our hotel, we prepared ourselves for the experience. A Russian banya is an unique ritual--it consists of sitting in a HOT sauna, while getting beaten with birch branches then finishing it off with a jump into a FREEZING pool-sounds fun, right?

A few of my colleagues and I headed over to our private banya for what ended up being one of the nights I will never forget. Once there, the whole process was a little intimidating but we figured while in Russia—do as the Russians. We all entered the sauna after changing into our bathing suits (some choose to go in with only a towel wrapped around them but no-one in our group did!), and determined our Moscow Manager, Constantin, was going to do the honors of being the “beater”. It is a surreal feeling sitting in 100+ degrees while being hit with branches.

When it was my turn to go, I opted to take the chicken route and stood under a bucket of cold water that was poured on me rather than voluntarily jumping into the freezing pool. Nevertheless….I got the drift.

I’m definitely glad I took the plunge and experienced a true Russian Banya. It is something that I think everyone should try out when they visit. Like I mentioned before, while in Russia—do as the Russians!

In my two seasons selling the Volga Dream the most frequently asked question has remained, “Is this boat really as deluxe as they say it is?”

In my personal opinion, the answer is yes. I loved the Volga Dream and had a wonderful experience floating lazily along the Volga River passing elderly men fishing and children throwing rocks along the banks. The sunsets are enough to take your breath away. The staff was tremendously friendly and attentive. The minute I sat down in a lounge chair on the Sun Deck a staff member was at my side asking if I needed a drink or a blanket.

The food was surprisingly tasty – a mix of traditional Russian and European cuisine. The rooms are small like all other Russian river cruisers, but very well appointed. I had my own private bathroom with a glassed in shower, blow dryer and deluxe toiletries. There was a flat screen TV on the wall showing BBC World, Animal Planet (oddly enough) and other global stations. The picture window allowed me to watch the coastline from the comfort of my room. (Main Deck Superior Cabins and above have full windows.)

The only downfall I experienced while onboard was the crowd at the buffet line. The dining room is not that big and tables are quiet close to each other making it slightly hard to navigate. The line at the buffet can get quite long and the close quarters can complicate things. Luckily most meals are plated, so you rarely have to deal with the buffet problem. The cruise operators are working to fix this problem now.

Another common complaint is the lack of activity onboard the ship. Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is not a Regent ship. It is a small vessel (carrying less than 115 passengers) built minimally to navigate through the narrow canals and locks along the Volga River. There is no casino or dance club, but there is a comfortable lounge to sit, socialize and drink as well as library with computers and books to occupy your time. I do not recommend this boat for the super active traveler, but for those who wish to relax and see all that Russia has to offer beyond Moscow and St. Petersburg, the Volga Dream is definitely dreamy.

Last month I had the opportunity to stay at the Pokrovka Suite Hotel in Moscow . I’ll admit, I went in prepared to hate the location and was a bit skeptical of the hotel itself. It has marketed itself as an all-suite hotel, but also as a design-hotel. Sometimes hotels like this come off as plastic and cheap, and sometimes just plain weird and uncomfortable. The Pokrovka Suite Hotel proved to be a pleasant surprise.

The hotel is located a solid 30 minute walk from Red Square. It’s a 10 – 15 minute walk to the closest metro station, which is on the Garden Ring. This is four (4) stops from Red Square, which then places you in the heart of Moscow. The street that runs in front of the hotel is a one way street leading away from Red Square (toward the Garden Ring) so traffic can sometimes be an issue. The positive aspect of the location is that the hotel is located in an actual neighborhood. This means that there are a variety of restaurants and cafes, all within a short walk from the hotel. The newest hot-spots are still a taxi or metro ride away, but at least you’re not isolated in a business area of the city.


This is an all-suite hotel, so accommodations range from spacious junior suites all the way to a few extravagant two-bedroom suites. All but the highest category of suites have rather small bathrooms, but excellent amenities. There is quite a bit of modern / contemporary art located throughout the hotel and the elevator wall is a photo story that is different on each floor and is meant to represent the seven stages of life. All photos are from the renowned Czech photographer, Stephan Hon. There is also very contemporary furniture by Guillaume Pichaud (that looks quite uncomfortable but is actually okay) and it’s discreetly for sale throughout the hotel.


I was worried about over-the-top or even ridiculous décor, but that worry was completely unfounded. The suites have a contemporary style, but are completely comfortable and appropriate, even for the most conservative guests!

Many will agree that exploring a country by private car is an appealing option as it allows for greater freedom, flexibility, and the chance to travel around remote and off-the-beaten-track areas. However, the current state of the roads in Romania and Bulgaria, both of which joined the European Union last year, could discourage even the most adventurous visitors. The latest Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report published by the World Economic Forum ranks both countries high for their natural and cultural resources but according to the same study the quality of the ground infrastructure in Romania and Bulgaria apparently puts them behind some less developed African and Asian countries. A typical mode of transportation in the rural areas of Romania and Bulgaria can be seen above.

Visitors to this part of the Balkans should be aware that proper highways are only few and the rest of the road network leaves much to be desired. Despite the promises preceding the parliamentary elections in both countries, most major infrastructure projects have been in a standstill following the accusations of mismanagement and corruption regarding the funding provided for these projects by the European Union. In addition, it is best to avoid self-driving in the major cities like Sofia, Varna, and Bucharest as the traffic is very hectic and jams are a regular occurrence. In the summer months, finding a parking spot in the centers of the large cities can also be a real challenge. Out in the countryside, road signs are often only in the local alphabet, which in Bulgaria means it is in Cyrillic. In the remote rural areas, one must also add the “bonus” of encountering slow-moving farm animals and horse- and donkey-drawn carts.

Undoubtedly, discovering the hidden historic and cultural charms of these countries’ remote villages, monasteries, and national parks is best done by car and quite often this is also the only option. While the central parts of the large cities are generally best explored on foot, considering using a professional driver and guide when touring the countryside is highly recommended as the added value of their local knowledge and experience will save you time and undoubtedly offset the cost of their services.

I just got back from 3 weeks of extensive traveling in Eastern Europe & Russia. To be honest, one of my favorite things in the world is shopping, so it was party time for me when I went to the Izmailovsky bazaar in Moscow. (Although I had to limit the size of my purchases or my luggage would explode – which it would have, if it wasn’t for Jade bringing back some of my stuff and Kevan with his super-handy extra duffle bag!)

The stands at Izmailovsky only take cash - but they take rubles, dollars and euros. Most of them speak some English, Spanish, Chinese and quite a few more languages that I did not even understand; just enough to make the sale. And they really want the business, so usually you can bargain with them. A general rule is that you can get the item for up to 30% lower than the asking price – the more you buy, the better the deal.

Well, I had been looking to buy a Faberge egg. You will see SO many of them in Russia – but if you see one you really like, buy it right away, because you will not find the same one again. I had seen so many beautiful eggs, but so far, none of them had sparked my eye enough to buy it. As I was strolling with Kevan, I saw a golden one that I just HAD to have - but it was bargain time, so I tried not to show my degree of interest. As I was looking at it, I also see another one that I like a lot. So I knew that my chances of getting a better price just doubled!

I looked at them for a while, and then I asked the man the price. He tells me each is $1500 rubles (roughly $60 dollars). I nod, hold them a little longer to show I’m considering, say thank you, and start walking away. After 3 steps, he yells that he will sell me both for $2500 rubles (about $100 dollars). I said I would think about it and walked away.

So we went around for a few minutes, and then returned. I told him I really liked the eggs, but I only had $80 dollars. He says he cannot sell them for that price or he will make no money, and asks me for $100 dollars. “But I only have $80 left”, I say.

I notice he really wants the sale as he asks me if I have any rubles left; I say I have 100 (about $4 dollars). He then offers me the eggs for $80 dollars and 500 rubles. I stick to my guns: “But I just don’t have that!”

So once again, I thank him and say I cannot buy them. But even before I could turn around to walk away: “Ok, ok, $80 dollars and 100 rubles.”

And the eggs were mine.

Recently, I had the good luck to be in Vienna during harvest season and was lucky enough to be able to eat in a local Heuriger. Think of a German beer-garden and replace the “beer” with “wine” and you have a Heuriger restaurant. Most of these small local restuarants are located just outside the city center, usually 20 minutes or so by taxi from the central area. Believe me – it’s worth the cost. The restaurants are all extremely casual with communal seating. Generally, you order at a counter (all the food for the night is on display), then the food is made to order for you and brought to your table.

If there is a branch of pine needles above the doorway as you enter, young, just harvested wine is available and is worth a try. At Heiuriger Welser , we enjoyed a delicious dinner of lightly fried fresh garden vegetables, delicious local salads, and a smorgasboard of fried chicken, succulent tender ham, roast pork, sausages and more. Desserts were a selection of homemade strudels. Two local musicians entertained the room and serenaded our group with a rendition of “Edelweiss” from The Sound of Music. Our entire table joined in with singing, much to the amusement of the locals! This is the perfect place to meet local residents, enjoy simple fresh food and have a glass of young wine.

My hometown’s Christmas Markets have just been listed among the 12 top markets in Europe by Travel & Leisure. It’s well deserved. No matter what your religion is, if you travel to Prague in the winter, you will enjoy browsing through the stalls filled with gifts: colorful hats, puppets, wooden toys, Christmas decorations, and much more. You will love sipping the hot spiced wine and listening to Christmas carols.

I just feel obligated to warn you about one bizarre thing regarding Christmas in Prague: the carps. In late December just before Christmas, not only at the markets, but also on almost every street corner, you will find large cisterns teeming with carps. In the US, this fresh water species is considered rather a filthy inedible bottom feeder. Not so in the Czech Republic; here it is a once-a-year delicacy that can be prepared in many different ways – in wine, with stuffing or breaded and fried. It is a question of tradition to have a great carp on your Christmas table and people stand in long lines to secure one. If you travel with kids, you should know that while it is exciting to watch the fish swimming around, you may want to protect your child from witnessing the final stages of the carp’s life – the merciless blow of the butcher’s mallet and the not so pretty gutting. The more fortunate of carps though are bought alive, kept home in the bathtubs for children to watch and learn before the family takes the carp to the river and releases him hoping that the waters of Vltava are clean enough for the fish to survive. Or, well… why should I lie to you… after the children develop a natural attachment towards the innocent creature, it is up to the father to play the butcher and kill it at home. If you make friends while you travel to Prague, ask for carp stories. Children and fathers alike will have plenty. And do try the carp. It’s delicious.