Travel Russia Today

This past July I was lucky enough to travel through Eastern Europe with my fun and at times, wild colleagues, Leigh and Kevan. After some time in Vienna, we decided to take a train to Budapest. Since I had never been on a high-speed train, I was quite eager to begin the journey. What an experience—easy, smooth and surprise, surprise, super quick!

Once the train departed the station, we decided to try the food in the dining car (I know, I know we are quite adventurous). One thing to note is that the train does not accept credit cards or US dollars on board- only Euros and Forints. Who doesn’t accept credit cards? Unfortunately, Leigh and I did not have any euros but we were lucky to have our savvy traveler Kevan with us. Kevan had exchanged some money for euros but with the exchange rates being where they are now he did not get much!

Now imagine, three Americans sitting there staring at the menu just hoping that we had enough euros to pay for everyone. After ordering and receiving the bill, we realized that we could pay the whole bill and then some. Needless to say the “then some” was another round of drinks for each of us!

Upon arrival in Budapest, we were greeted by our driver and taken to the amazing Four Seasons Gresham Palace. What a hotel!

The staff is top notch, the service is impeccable and the view from our room was exquisite. There is nothing like opening up your curtains and looking out onto the Danube River. Our time to get to Budapest was great and the time spent there was even better. Each of us cannot wait to go back!

As the Director of Special Projects at Exeter International I get to be part of some pretty interesting travel projects. This most recent one was one of my favorites. I traveled with Greg Tepper, President of Exeter International and the famous travel photographer, Rob Howard , Rob’s wife Lisa and a couple of friends. The purpose of the trip was to get some beautiful photographs to adorn the pages of this year’s brochure. Rob did not disappoint and people will be impressed with the images he captured along the way.

We traveled to St. Petersburg, Riga, Warsaw, Krakow, Vienna and Bratislava. If it sounds exhausting – it was. It was also exciting and exhilarating.

In St. Petersburg we stayed at the very luxurious Taleon Imperial Hotel, A Leading Hotels of the World property. Every luxury hotel has its charms and extravagances that make it particularly memorable. My travel companions raved about the charming rooms, the perfect central location, the beautiful blue marble of the lobby floor, and the view of Kazan Cathedral from the restaurant as we enjoyed our lavish breakfasts each morning. I spotted something else that made my stay very memorable – something so subtle but yet so very important to travel weary guests.

At midnight each evening – a hotel staff member changes the carpets in the elevators. The beautiful blue and gold carpets have the day of the week woven into them. I’m serious. Isn’t that the definition of a luxury touch in a hotel – when you say to yourself – I would love to have a view like this, a shower like this, a comforter like this etc? Well – I couldn’t help but think - I want someone to change my welcome mats at home, with the day of the week woven into them, each day, so I don’t forget what day it is. I”ll check and see if they have them at Lowe’s this weekend – I suspect I will have to continue to rely on my calendar.

After every visit to Romania, I cannot help noticing how quickly the country is changing from an obscure Balkan territory ruled by ruthless tyrants like Vlad Tepes and Nicolae Ceausescu into a popular destination famous for its magnificent architectural monuments, authentic local culture, and friendly and welcoming people. Despite the fact that most visitors come to Romania to see the sights associated (sometimes wrongly) with Count Dracula, the country has so much more to offer, so the sooner one gets over the ‘vampire country’ pop-culture stereotype, the more rewarding and enriching their experience will be.

As is the case with traveling to most ex-Communist countries, arriving and staying with an open mind is absolutely essential. Ever since it joined the European Union in January 2007, the Romanian infrastructure has been getting a much-needed face lift, but many of the remote (and most charming) regions like Maramures and Southern Bucovina are only accessible via local roads which are still in bad condition. Currently, even in the capital city of Bucharest, many of the buildings in the city center are undergoing dramatic restoration and some streets are closed for renovation as well.

Being a discerning and broad-minded traveler in Romania also means that your daily travel plans should be fairly flexible. Just because a guidebook or a website (or even your local guide) says that a certain small church or village museum is open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, this might not be the case when you arrive there. Do not let the handwritten (in Romanian) ‘out for lunch’ sign on the front door spoil your entire day, but rather accept it as part of the cultural experience and either move on or come back later.

Maybe you wanted to roam the ruins of the Poienari Castle – one of the few fortresses historically linked to Vlad Dracula, just to find out that the only way to reach it is by climbing some 1,500 steps uphill. Settle for a drive-by and continue your exploration of Transylvania, where many more medieval ruins and fortified churches are waiting to be discovered.

With open minds and a little flexibility, travelers can grasp the spirit and raw charm of an emerging Romania, which is an experience unlike those of the polished tourist areas of western Europe.

It is outside the capital city of Yerevan, that Armenia truly beckons the traveler. There are monasteries; LOTS of monasteries and after three days you will hope to never see another monastery for a very, very long time.

Each is unique and beautiful and each has a story to tell. Some of the monasteries sell locally produced honey, which is absolutely delicious. The big decision is whether you take the risk of having it leak into your suitcase so that Aunt Mary can have a taste or simply eating it all during your stay. I ate it all!

A couple of hours north is Noravank – one of the most peaceful and stunningly located monasteries I have ever seen. If you are lucky, the local priest might be on site and if you are even luckier he might sing for you. His voice fills the small church and resonates from the smoke-blackened walls – this is the stuff goosebumps are made of!

Other sites not to be missed around Yerevan are the Gerhard Cave Monastery and the Temple of Garni. We were given a private concert by a quintet (more goosebumps) and the history accorded to these sites is truly fascinating.

Armenia shares its northern border with the Republic of Georgia making for an ideal opportunity to pair these two countries in the same trip.

“East is East, and West is West, and never the twain shall meet”
- Rudyard Kipling

Was Kipling thinking about the Ukraine when he wrote this? Even the name of the country, Ukraine, if translated means ‘Borderland’. High-end fashion, new, trendy restaurants, and countless museums and cultural attractions have made Kiev the most sought after city of the Ukraine. I agree this is a wonderful city where one will find all the eases and comforts of the western world but when I travel I want to go deeper, go different, don’t you? If you are like me and want a real treat, visit Lviv.

Located just 6 hours from Kiev, you will find a charming city full of character, atmosphere, and above all great coffee. Be sure to take a break from the touring and take a seat in one of those small family style coffeehouses scattered in the historical center and enjoy a cup of Lviv coffee. The Lviv Coffee Factory opened in 1971 and has since been pouring the “good stuff” to all those that visit.

During my visits to Lviv I always make time to enjoy my good ole' “Cup of Joe”- black, no cream! I also order one (only to start, of course) of the tarts that are always staring at me with their enticing eyes and come hither smell. They always look so lonely on their shelf under the register so being the nice guy that I am, I always rescue 1 (alright you got me- 2). At times, I stop to think about my waistline but come on, indulging is so much more fun and adventurous!

After your mid-morning snack, go out and explore this beautiful city with a visit to Ploshcha Rynok (market square), the Dominican Roman Catholic Church and the Galician Seym (Parliament). After your discovery mission has ended, find a nice café and enjoy a leisurely and relaxed lunch. One tip of advice for your lunch – order the borscht! This may be your only chance in life to enjoy an authentic (and delicious) bowl of borscht and be sure to ask for extra sour cream.

Lviv will enchant you, go be enchanted...

I recently visited Moscow and had the opportunity to check out the city’s current hip and happening places. Where to see and be seen in Moscow is constantly changing and what was hot last month may be cold this month.

This month, I recommend trying the sushi at the uber trendy Nadalny Vostok (Not that Far East) Restaurant. Not that I don’t love Pelmeni and Borscht, but the sushi was fantastic and such a refreshing change from traditional Russian food. My colleague had steak and loved it, while another in our group ordered pasta. The menu is vast and a little expensive, but isn’t everything in Moscow?

After sushi, head over to the Ritz Carlton’s rooftop 0₂ Lounge for cocktails. While sipping your gin and tonic or Russian pivo (beer), you can enjoy panoramic views over Red Square and the Kremlin. I walked into the lounge and I thought I had stepped onto another planet. The spherical chairs lining the windows and the white leather couches create an “out of this world” ambience. Check it out under dining.

If you’re not into the five-star hotel lounge scene, go to Simachev Bar. This is designer Denis Simachev’s latest venture and you can walk to it from anywhere in the center of the city. I won’t ruin it by giving too many details, but let’s just say that the controversial décor and unique furnishings are a must-see. I had a very tasty berry mojito and was pleased to see that they have a full menu of light fare including salads and pizzas at very reasonable prices. The music was fun and the people were friendly and casual.

Last month I went to Tbilisi, Georgia, where I hadn’t been in a long time…and things have changed! Tbilisi is now a thriving capital city (not the sleepy town of 1990) conveniently located within driving distance of most of the top historic sites of the country. The past few years have brought several luxury, Western-managed hotels, so travelers have many options now- not inexpensive (expect to pay approx. $250 to $350 per night at the better hotels), but the comfort offered will be exactly what more demanding travelers expect. The Marriott Tbilisi (where I stayed) is a former grand dame hotel in the center of the city, recently restored to its former glory. The Marriott will be the place to stay until a raft of new, luxury hotels open in the next few years: Inter-Continental, Park Hyatt and Kempinski (in the former House of Communists!).

The historic sites are what make Georgia so fascinating. The monasteries to the north (dating to the 13th century) are stunning in their mountainous setting. Stalin’s birthplace (Gori) is unforgettable- my guide in the Stalin Museum was clearly still enamored with the fallen Soviet leader (even though most Georgians no longer admire Stalin). The town of Gori is seemingly frozen in time and you can easily feel that it is 1960 and the Soviet Union is entering its prime.

Shopping for antiques (I found a 150-year old Persian carpet for a steal) is unforgettable in Tbilisi. The Old Town hasn’t changed in at least 100 years and all visitors will want to take at least a full afternoon to stroll the streets (and shop).

For me, one of the great highlights of going to Georgia is the food: simply the best vegetables, fresh chicken, nut sauces and khachapuri (soft cheesy bread- a sort of cheese-filled pizza without the toppings- ) I have ever found (and I travel a lot!). Since Georgia dropped its visa requirement for many countries, including the US, now is the time to go.