Travel Russia Today

When I travel, I absolutely love experiences that are a little off the beaten track. My favorites are the ones that are closed to the public – it does not get much more exclusive and unique than that. On my last trip to Russia, I was able to experience a handful of these. One of the most extraordinary ones was a visit to the Maltese Chapel.

The Maltese Chapel is part of the Vorontsov Palace, built in the 18th century. The Palace houses Russia’s most important military school, the Suvorov Military Academy. Our tour was led personally by the chaplain of the Academy’s church, Father Alexander.

The beauty of this chapel made me feel super special for being in such an exclusive place. We even got to touch ancient books that would normally be protected by a glass screen or guards making sure you do not get too close. And since the cadets were on summer break, we also got to see the part of the Military Academy where they sleep, and even their little gym!

But for me personally, the best part was knowing that we helped support the Children’s Hospice charity, founded by Father Alexander in 2003. The charity provides relief for terminally ill children and their parents, along with making the children’s last wishes come true. The visit to the Academy may be arranged through Exeter for a set donation that goes entirely to the Children’s Hospice.

It is great to know that having fun actually made a difference this time around!

I had the pleasure of traveling on the Golden Eagle train on the Trans-Siberian Express Railway in September. I joined the trip in the town of Irkutsk. After arriving from Moscow at 5:00 in the morning to freezing temperatures, I had a few hours to freshen up (and bundle up), before the train arrived.

Irkutsk is known as the “Paris of Siberia”. Today, this is clearly an overstatement, but in the late 19th century, after the Decembrist revolt, the city became a forced home to the many exiled intellectuals and prominent figures and grew into a cultural center of Siberia.

We started our day by visiting a few of the local churches there as well as the Gagarin Embankment. After lunch we visited the Alexander III monument commemorating the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway and explored some of the wooden houses and architecture around Irkutsk. We were given some time to wander around the market hall before ending our day at the mansion of Decembrist Prince Volkonsky which concluded with a private concert there. It was a nice way to end the first day of this amazing journey.

I must say though, of all the cities and towns that I visited on the trek back to Moscow, Irkutsk was my least favorite. I’m glad I went because I can now say “I’ve been to Irkutsk” but it’s a place that’s not high on my places to return list.

The restaurant scene in Prague has always been slightly irritating to me. It is only recently that it has stabilized and you will find the same restaurants exactly where you left them couple years ago. One of my favorite restaurants in Prague and a true constant in the city, is the Café and Pub At the Hanging Coffee in the Castle District. I loved it as a student and I love it now. It has always stayed true to what it is supposed to be – a great neighborhood pub with wonderful beer and food.

The story behind the name tells you how laid back this place is: A person eats his or her lunch, orders a coffee and then pays his bill adding one more coffee to it – leaving it “hanging”. A broke person can come in and ask: is there a coffee hanging here? If there is, he gets to drink it for free.

The restaurant offers authentic, no-nonsense Czech cuisine. If you are not hungry enough for half duck with cherry sauce, red cabbage and dumplings, you can sip your beer and munch on a herring or pickled cheese. Try to leave some room for dessert, their fruit dumplings are delicious.

So now you know where to get a cup of coffee if you lose your wallet in Prague!