Last month I went to Tbilisi, Georgia, where I hadn’t been in a long time…and things have changed! Tbilisi is now a thriving capital city (not the sleepy town of 1990) conveniently located within driving distance of most of the top historic sites of the country. The past few years have brought several luxury, Western-managed hotels, so travelers have many options now- not inexpensive (expect to pay approx. $250 to $350 per night at the better hotels), but the comfort offered will be exactly what more demanding travelers expect. The Marriott Tbilisi (where I stayed) is a former grand dame hotel in the center of the city, recently restored to its former glory. The Marriott will be the place to stay until a raft of new, luxury hotels open in the next few years: Inter-Continental, Park Hyatt and Kempinski (in the former House of Communists!).
The historic sites are what make Georgia so fascinating. The monasteries to the north (dating to the 13th century) are stunning in their mountainous setting. Stalin’s birthplace (Gori) is unforgettable- my guide in the Stalin Museum was clearly still enamored with the fallen Soviet leader (even though most Georgians no longer admire Stalin). The town of Gori is seemingly frozen in time and you can easily feel that it is 1960 and the Soviet Union is entering its prime.
Shopping for antiques (I found a 150-year old Persian carpet for a steal) is unforgettable in Tbilisi. The Old Town hasn’t changed in at least 100 years and all visitors will want to take at least a full afternoon to stroll the streets (and shop).
For me, one of the great highlights of going to Georgia is the food: simply the best vegetables, fresh chicken, nut sauces and khachapuri (soft cheesy bread- a sort of cheese-filled pizza without the toppings- ) I have ever found (and I travel a lot!). Since Georgia dropped its visa requirement for many countries, including the US, now is the time to go.
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