Travel Russia Today

Recently, my colleagues and I returned from a whirlwind trip to Turkey. Eight nights, each at a different hotel, three internal flights and hours of driving, it was an adventure that may not appeal to everyone but I would repeat it in a heart beat. Besides visiting the well known sites such as Ephesus or Pamukkale, we were fortunate enough to have a chance to explore the far corners of Turkey and at one point found ourselves just few yards away from the border with Iran. After the trip, we concluded that Eastern Turkey was the highlight for all of us.

Immediately after our transatlantic flight, we continued to Kars. The three hour Turkish Airlines flight was smooth, food thousand times more delicious than whatever they serve on US domestic flights these days, and with a window seat, I got a sneak peak of the impressive and rugged mountains we were to admire for the next couple days. The airplane made a nice circle around Kars and its Citadel which I guessed must have been purely for our benefit as we were the only plane that was landing there that afternoon.

We were all pretty tired at that point but since time was tight, we had to take advantage of the beautiful weather and decided to go directly to Ani, the ancient capital of Armenia. It’s only recently that this beautiful site opened for tourists, as it used to be within the militarized border zone with the former Soviet Union and now independent Armenia. We were the only visitors which gave us a chance to roam freely within the large territory of mostly still uncovered sites. Of the city, that once was home to up to 200,000 people and was often called the City of Thousand and One Churches, only few partially reconstructed buildings remain today – the Cathedral, few churches, a Mosque, a Citadel and the city walls. It was eerie but beautiful to walk on the grounds of the city knowing that under every heap of soil or hill there was a crumbled house or church more than a thousand years old. Soon enough, our eyes were glued to the ground as we started to notice potsherds and even pieces of frescoed walls. Our guide who used to be an archeologist could not help falling into his old routine turning over a stone every once in a while and very quickly was rewarded by finding a coin! It was fascinating to see him clean it to try and see what is under the layers of dirt.

And this is how it went from Ani on. At every site, after a while of taking in the beauty of the landscape, architecture or statues, we would promptly turn our gaze down to see what piece of history we might find. (All our findings were always handed over to the local museums and that is how it should be!)

Touching down at Sarajevo’s small airport, my mind was flooded with images from news reports from some 15 years ago. How can one forget the horrific scenes of destroyed neighborhoods and entire villages, mass graves, and starving and desperate women and children fleeing their homes in search of safety from the devastation of the Bosnian war?

For many of us, the persisting memories of the brutal war between 1992 and 1995 are the last and only impression we have from Bosnia – Herzegovina, a small Balkan country which was once part of the Yugoslav Federation but declared independence after its break-up in 1991. Is the war officially over? Are foreign visitors safe? Is the countryside still in ruins and strewn with mine fields?

The war has been over for over 15 years now and my recent visit to Bosnia-Herzegovina was a true eye-opener and a pleasant surprise. I encountered warm and friendly people, beautiful mountains and unspoiled countryside, centuries-long and eventful history, diverse culture, and wonderful local food and wine. The capital city of Sarajevo is a surprisingly cosmopolitan place with lively sidewalk cafes and restaurants (which are packed on a sunny day), the picturesque Miljaka river flowing through town, and a curious mixture of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Socialist architecture. Even though the city has undergone extensive rebuilding since the end of the war, bullet and shrapnel holes can still be seen on many façades. Of course, each one of our Bosnian hosts had their own personal accounts of the Siege of Sarajevo which took place between April 1992 and February 1996. These vivid and heartbreaking stories of immense hardship, tragedy, survival, and hope are what made each one of these encounters a unique and unforgettable experience.

Under the Dayton Peace Agreement which ended the Bosnian War, the country was split into the Republika Srpska and the Bosnian - Croat Federation - two relatively autonomous entities with their own governments, parliaments, and presidencies.

Following the October 4th general elections, it is now clear that Bosniaks are willing to seek compromise and more moderate political line while Bosnian Croats and Serbs preferred to (once again) support more or less radical nationalist and separatist parties. Is there a hope for a multiethnic Bosnia-Herzegovina, or will the country remain divided and in a political gridlock? Let us all hope for the best as the people of Bosnia-Herzegovina deserve nothing less.

Estonia’s Capital Tallinn has established itself firmly as the charming picturesque town not to be missed on any cruise itinerary through Northern Europe. It is friendly and small enough to manage in one day. However, my visit this past winter proved that there is a lot more to Estonia than what you may discover during that one day shore excursion. It is, for example, one of the most progressive countries as far as the Internet. The Estonians not only gave world Skype that revolutionized the way we think about phone calls to overseas, they also claimed the right to Internet access as the innate right of all their citizens, thus wifi is available all over the country and is free of charge even at 5 star hotels. Driving to the west coast of Estonia, I kept encountering time and again the giant and beautifully sleek windmills that did not in any way disturb the pristine landscape. From what I saw, the country is well on its way to be Eastern Europe’s most progressive and ecologically minded state and hopefully not even the severe economical crises will steer it off this course.

There are three things that I would recommend to any visitor that wishes to take more time to get to know this fascinating country. First, do not miss the KUMU Art Museum in Tallinn. Designed by the Finnish architect Pekka Vappavuori and opened in February 2006, KUMU is the biggest art museum of the country, housing a comprehensive collection of Estonian art. Its sleek and modern design is a great complement to the more historic Art Museum of the Kadriorg Palace in the park of the same name. The collection includes examples of Classical Estonian Art of the 18th century, wonderful pieces by Avant-garde artists of the 1920’s and also works by contemporary artists. Opening hours: May–Sept Tue-Sun 11.00-18.00, Oct–April Wed–Sun 11.00–18.00.

Second, if you have time to venture beyond Tallinn, head west to visit the Islands of Muhu and Saaremaa. Muhu is the perfect base for your exploration as it is home to Estonia’s best hotel and restaurant, the Padaste Manor and its acclaimed Alexander Restaurant (more details about the hotel in one of the next blogs).

Third, and this is something you may have no influence over, but do try to see a moose. This will obviously only happen when you travel to the countryside, but chances of such encounter are pretty high, especially on the above mentioned islands.

In other words, do take more time to get to know Estonia.

Traveling to Stockholm for the first time, I knew I was in store for some new adventures. Strapping myself into a harness and climbing out onto the (very high) rooftop of the former Parliament building was not one I was expecting! After getting acclimated to the height, I began to look around at the scenery but not without first noticing that the majority of walkways did not have any handrails.

The rooftop did offer a fantastic and unique view over Stockholm’s Old Town as well as various other islands. Our guide was a Sarah Palin look-a like complete with the eye winks. She provided a great time line of the city, including the very building we were standing on, while we maneuvered to different positions along the roof. We were strapped to a cable along the narrow metal walkway, requiring one to carry the cable along like a dog leash.

Later that day, I had a chance to view the Parliament building from a different island and was amazed that we actually climbed up there and walked along its pitched roofs.

If you were to ask any Hungarian what not to miss in Budapest, I am quite sure that Budapest Market Hall would be pretty high on their list. I am not Hungarian, but it was definitely one of my priorities during my recent trip to Hungary. Other priorities: a visit to one of Budapest’s baths – done! Coffee and cake at an old time café – done! Castle District, Parliament, Jewish Quarter – all done! So it was time to enjoy some shopping at the Central Market Hall, one of the largest and oldest indoor markets in Central Europe.

My main interest was the food which is sold on the ground floor. The second floor is where you will find souvenirs and kiosks with prepared food. We first browsed through the seemingly never-ending stalls of paprika, garlic, fresh produce and overwhelming variety of meats and sausages. My guide Agi was wonderful and helped me find the best stalls, it was good to see that she actually knew the sellers and was a regular here. In fact, most of the people I saw shopping were locals. On the second floor, I skipped the leather goods and other souvenirs in favor of the Lángos I had been craving ever since landing in Budapest. Lángos [pronounced Langosh] is a deep fried (I know, I know – not good for me!) flat bread that has the most wonderful chewy consistency that works perfectly with the melted cheese you put on top of it. The long line was a good sign and proved to be quite entertaining as I observed my guide cringe with every order of toppings the foreign customers were placing – olives, onions, ham. No, no, no, Agi was truly tortured by the sacrilege committed on her beloved delicacy. You are supposed to eat it with a bit of sour cream, garlic and shredded cheese! I knew better to let her order exactly that for me. And it was delicious!

And the moral of the story is to get a great guide, if not for the enlightening lectures about history and art, then definitely to get the best out of your food experience without making a fool out of yourself.

Budapest Market Hall is open Mon – 6:00AM-5:00PM, Tue-Fri – 6:00AM-6:00PM, Sat -6:00AM-3:00PM, closed on Sunday.

Not many in the US are familiar with Slovakia, but for Europeans, mainly those from Central Europe, it is very popular for its magnificent High Tatra Mountains that lie on the Northern border with Poland. While it may not yet be a destination in itself for Americans, it makes for a great break on your way from Budapest to Krakow, for example. This summer, I was fortunate enough to be able to do just that. My colleague Gwen and I traveled from Budapest to the new Kempinski High Tatras Hotel in Strbske Pleso, a beautiful lake resort set in the Eastern range of the mountains. I was sorry to do the drive at night, because we were missing great scenery – Trnava and Nitra with their impressive castles and the lower mountains of Velka Fatra and Low Tatras. On the other hand, it was wonderful to arrive at night and be surprised by a beautiful view in the morning.

The hotel, reminiscent of a large Hapsburg hunting lodge, is the perfect basis for any type of traveler. Active ones can exert themselves on a number of hiking paths to the surrounding lakes, waterfalls or peaks. Those who prefer a more leisurely vacation can enjoy the scenery while strolling around the lake or taking the ski lift to Solisko and admire the lake from above while sipping hot tea or, better yet, a shot of local herbal liquor.

Not having enough time, I opted for the middle road, taking what was supposed to be a short hike to the Skok Waterfall. It was an ideal afternoon trip, one hour and a half of walking up the hill, picking blueberries and raspberries, spotting mushrooms and hoping to get a glimpse of the chamois that I used to see in Tatras as a kid. In higher altitude the forest receded and I could not stop taking pictures of the peaks around me. I finally arrived to the waterfall and saw that you can climb on top of it. It was getting late but something in me could not resist the challenge, put a waterfall in front of me, I have to climb it! I started to doubt myself when I saw I would have to hold onto chains attached to the rocks along the waterfall, but the adventurer in me won and after few slips and curses, I conquered it. It was worth it for the view and the feeling of accomplishment.

I know that I will go back to spend more time in Tatra Mountains and for those of you who have yet to discover it, I highly recommend it.

Today I want to tell you about one more exciting offer in the Russia's travelling field. It's Russian river cruise.

If you're reading this blog then probably Russian culture is something more to you than matryoshkas and the Red Square. And, in my opinion, river cruise in the countryside of Russia is the best opportunity to discover Russian nature and culture. A culture much more ancient and individual than you can find it in Moscow or Saint-Petersburg.

In the numerous cities and towns that you'll visit during your journey, you'll see ancient orthodox monasteries and churches, conserved monuments of Soviet era and native Russians, not touched by globalization trends, yet.

Some words about tour offers that provoke my post:

The first one, Waterways of the Czars, is a cruise between St. Petersburg and Moscow along the Neva and Volga rivers. It is perfect for those who visit Russia for the first time. You'll have enough time to enjoy the beauty of the two Russian capitals, as well as to visit such ancient Russian towns as Yaroslavl, Uglich, etc.

The cruise lasts 13 days. Total costs from 2396$.

Second, Footsteps of the Cossacks, is a tour on Ukraine. Russian and Ukrainian histories were inseparable from each other for a long time. Ukraine's capital - Kyiv was a capital of Kievskaya Rus from 882 to 1132. There you can completely fall into the traditions of Russian and Ukrainian cossacks, visit famous places referred to lives of Vladimir Lenin and Anton Chekhov. Incredible, majestic southland nature also afford you a lot of pleasurable memories.

The cruise lasts 13 days. Total costs from 1930$.

Hope, this information will be useful for those who interested in Russian culture. Fell free to ask your questions in comments.

When one mentions Russia, the first images that pop into any one’s mind would be Moscow or St. Petersburg of course. I had the opportunity to explore the less frequented parts of Russia. Cruising on the Volga Dream, we sailed in elegant style from St. Petersburg to Moscow in seven days.

I must admit I was alarmed at first when arriving at the St. Petersburg port to see 15-20 vessels docked. But my worries were quickly dismissed once we departed and we felt like the only vessel for miles. How peaceful it was to drift along with views of gorgeous wooded areas mile after mile, only to be interrupted by a spectacular cathedral decorated with the traditional onion domes. We sailed so close to an old cathedral swallowed up by the Volga River we felt like we could reach out and touch it.

Along the 1800 kilometer journey, we entered 19 locks gently raising us to Moscow’s 200 meters above sea level. Each day brought new delights, with a stop in a new port. The ports varied from a small island created to be an open air museum with a breathtaking twenty-two domed wooden church to a small city which is part of the Golden Ring. All of the ports feature glimpse into the lives of rural Russians-whether past or present. The experience provided us a broader view of Russia beyond its two famous cities. Something everyone should consider when deciding to explore this vast country.

One of my favorite cities in Poland is Wroclaw. It’s got all the charm of Krakow, but without the typical tourist hoards. It really feels like a true local experience. 2010 is a big year for those interested in Wroclaw’s Jewish Heritage, as it will see the reopening of the synagogue, which has been completely restored. I was able to do a quick walk-through on my visit last month and it’s truly going to be spectacular. This was once one of the largest synagogues in the German Empire (remember that Wroclaw was once the German city of Breslau) and was a center of liberal Judaism.

We have always had a bit of a challenge with hotels here, but the opening of two new properties in the past year has made this city very comfortable for our visitors.

Located in one of the most beautiful art nouveau buildings in the city, the Monopol opened this past April and is truly the cream of the crop in Wroclaw. This hotel is from the same family that owns the Copernicus and Stary in Krakow, two of our favorite hotels, and you can see their signature touches in this hotel as well. The historic façade belies the interior of dark marble, stark furnishings and contemporary touches.

Most room sizes are generous and have wood floors. My Classic Suite had gorgeous exposed brick elements and a lovely arch leading from the sleeping area to the living area. My only complaint would be the lack of furniture. The “living room” of the suite consisted of one chair, albeit comfortable, and a footstool. I was impressed by the compact, but luxurious bathroom. A separate bathtub and rainfall shower was quite nice and mine had a window, which allowed natural light into the relatively dark space.

The spa here is beautiful and I had a delicious dinner at the high-end seafood restaurant on the top floor with its panoramic views of Wroclaw. There is a fine dining restaurant with traditional Polish food on the ground floor as well as a chic bar.

For guests who appreciate a contemporary hotel, this is a great pick.

The Granary – La Suite Hotel has an unfortunate mouthful of a name, but I liked the simple elegance of the property. It just opened on November 9th and is on a small side street, approximately 10 minutes on foot from the Old Town Square. This hotel is perfect for those with mobility issues, as it is completely wheelchair accessible. As the name indicates, it is in a former medieval granary and they have used elements of the original building in the décor.

Rooms here are all-suite, making them some of the largest in the city. With only 47 rooms, it retains a boutique-hotel feel. Furnishings tend toward contemporary, but are more comfortable and welcoming than found in many similar hotels. The suites are spacious and some are located under a wall of glass, making them filled with light.

A small restaurant and fitness center round out the offerings here. It’s the perfect hotel for families or for those who need a bit of extra space. Those who are driving themselves might find the entrance (and parking lot) a bit difficult to navigate – even my driver had difficulties with the narrow space.

These two hotels are a welcome addition to this beautiful city.

On this day, twenty years ago, my sister, three aunts and I were supposed to deliver a birthday cake for my cousin who was born on November 17 - a day that commemorates the tragic death of Jan Opletal, a student killed by the Nazis during the occupation and that has since become The International Day of Students. It was 1989 and people, mainly students, took to the streets turning the celebration of the Students' Day into a protest against the communist regime that was still desperately holding on to the power.

My aunts and I decided that the birthday party would have to wait a bit since we wanted to support the protesters. I was barely a teenager then and felt huge pride for being able to join the demonstration. It was the first time I really looked at people around me and felt a common bond. Before that no one on the streets of Prague would look into your eyes, nobody would engage in a conversation with a stranger. Now we were screaming in unison and demanded freedom. The feeling of change about to come was palpable, for me there was no question about it - it was in the smiles and the excitement of people around me. Some of the leaders of the demonstration decided to move from Vysehrad down to the center towards Narodni Avenue. A few minutes later, there were rumors of police and militia blocking the streets to contain the protestors. It was then that my aunts made the call to leave and finally deliver the now slightly damaged cake.

Later that evening, we found out from my grandmother who had stayed longer that people were brutally beaten as the orders came to stop the demonstration at all cost. My grandmother was saved by a stranger who unlocked the entrance door to an apartment building and took peoplein. I felt slightly embarrassed that I was saved by a cake, but I guess I should not complain. The events of that day led to more protests and eventually the end of the Communist rule in Czechoslovakia.

Today, I remember November 17 along with the whole country and I am grateful that it is only history now. People are free to celebrate or protest, voice their opinion and travel whenever and wherever they like. They are free to vote and free to be unsatisfied with the government. They are even free to scream at the current president as one of the student leaders did yesterday. And that is something to celebrate!

Oh, and happy birthday, cousin!

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience a Russian winter, you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you set out east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the rooflines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming hot cup of chocolate or warming broth would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built, temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The question of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice, of course, is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

When I travel, I absolutely love experiences that are a little off the beaten track. My favorites are the ones that are closed to the public – it does not get much more exclusive and unique than that. On my last trip to Russia, I was able to experience a handful of these. One of the most extraordinary ones was a visit to the Maltese Chapel.

The Maltese Chapel is part of the Vorontsov Palace, built in the 18th century. The Palace houses Russia’s most important military school, the Suvorov Military Academy. Our tour was led personally by the chaplain of the Academy’s church, Father Alexander.

The beauty of this chapel made me feel super special for being in such an exclusive place. We even got to touch ancient books that would normally be protected by a glass screen or guards making sure you do not get too close. And since the cadets were on summer break, we also got to see the part of the Military Academy where they sleep, and even their little gym!

But for me personally, the best part was knowing that we helped support the Children’s Hospice charity, founded by Father Alexander in 2003. The charity provides relief for terminally ill children and their parents, along with making the children’s last wishes come true. The visit to the Academy may be arranged through Exeter for a set donation that goes entirely to the Children’s Hospice.

It is great to know that having fun actually made a difference this time around!

I had the pleasure of traveling on the Golden Eagle train on the Trans-Siberian Express Railway in September. I joined the trip in the town of Irkutsk. After arriving from Moscow at 5:00 in the morning to freezing temperatures, I had a few hours to freshen up (and bundle up), before the train arrived.

Irkutsk is known as the “Paris of Siberia”. Today, this is clearly an overstatement, but in the late 19th century, after the Decembrist revolt, the city became a forced home to the many exiled intellectuals and prominent figures and grew into a cultural center of Siberia.

We started our day by visiting a few of the local churches there as well as the Gagarin Embankment. After lunch we visited the Alexander III monument commemorating the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway and explored some of the wooden houses and architecture around Irkutsk. We were given some time to wander around the market hall before ending our day at the mansion of Decembrist Prince Volkonsky which concluded with a private concert there. It was a nice way to end the first day of this amazing journey.

I must say though, of all the cities and towns that I visited on the trek back to Moscow, Irkutsk was my least favorite. I’m glad I went because I can now say “I’ve been to Irkutsk” but it’s a place that’s not high on my places to return list.

The restaurant scene in Prague has always been slightly irritating to me. It is only recently that it has stabilized and you will find the same restaurants exactly where you left them couple years ago. One of my favorite restaurants in Prague and a true constant in the city, is the Café and Pub At the Hanging Coffee in the Castle District. I loved it as a student and I love it now. It has always stayed true to what it is supposed to be – a great neighborhood pub with wonderful beer and food.

The story behind the name tells you how laid back this place is: A person eats his or her lunch, orders a coffee and then pays his bill adding one more coffee to it – leaving it “hanging”. A broke person can come in and ask: is there a coffee hanging here? If there is, he gets to drink it for free.

The restaurant offers authentic, no-nonsense Czech cuisine. If you are not hungry enough for half duck with cherry sauce, red cabbage and dumplings, you can sip your beer and munch on a herring or pickled cheese. Try to leave some room for dessert, their fruit dumplings are delicious.

So now you know where to get a cup of coffee if you lose your wallet in Prague!

During my last visit to Moscow, I had the pleasure of visiting the Grand Kremlin Palace, the Faceted Chamber and Terem. This is the official residence of the Russian president and is completely closed to the public. Except for Exeter guests, of course! While Russian President Dmitry Medvedev does not actually live there, this is where he entertains his guests and where he hosts visits and meetings. Our own President was there just a week before us! In fact, our guide at the Grand Kremlin Palace was very fond of Obama and very excited about his visit.

One of the first rooms we saw was the Faceted Chamber, which used to be the main banquet and reception hall of the Tzars. This beautiful room, which now holds receptions, is covered with murals that were painted by Palekh craftsmen in the 19th century and that capture the most important events of Russian history.

One of the things you will notice is that all throughout the Grand Kremlin Palace the parquet floors are very well taken care of and absolutely flawless. They are essentially an attraction on their own. We were asked to stand on the red carpet in order to preserve the beautiful floor.

Two halls in particular took my breath away. First, I entered St. Alexander Hall, created in honor of Alexander Nevsky. Its walls are decorated with artificial pink marble and gilded bust columns. This room was one of the most exquisite places I had even been in.

But… just as I thought I had seen the most beautiful room in my life, I entered St. Andrew’s Hall – the throne room. This room was restored in the 1990’s and is so powerful and overwhelming that even if I was allowed to take a picture, it would never do it justice. While the whole palace is stunning, this room was by far my favorite and the most breathtaking one. I literally could have sat there for hours just staring.

While all of us here in the office work long hours to make sure that our clients have wonderful vacation and all last minute bookings go smoothly, one of our colleagues is enjoying a weeklong journey on the luxurious Trans-Siberian Express. Do I sound jealous? That is because I am. Maybe a vacation in a region that is mostly associated with freezing cold and labor camps is not what you are looking for, but from her daily emails, I know that Lori is enjoying her trip beyond expectations. I invite you to come back to our blog in a few days to read her report about flying all across Russia to Irkutsk, about visiting the Opera House and the Railway Museum in Novosibirsk, learning Russian on board of the train and much more.
The Trans-Siberian Express offers several journeys through Siberia and Central Asia, the longest one runs along the Silk Road all the way to Beijing and features visits to such wonderful sites like the Bukhara Madrassa, the Registan Square of Samarkand or the Terrakota Warriors in Xian.

In the Taganskaya area of the Moscow, stands an apartment building on a street corner. This building appears to be typical of every other building on the block but it does hold a secret. A 1950’s era cold war bunker is located 20 stories below. The only visible sign from ground level is the army green gate with a red star on it.

Once we were granted entrance (appointments are necessary), we were ushered in and then an enormous door was slammed shut and locked behind us letting us just how secure this site once was. My companions and I squeezed into a small elevator with our guide who was appropriately dressed in the traditional Russian army garb of green and red. We were delighted we did not have to climb down (or back up) 20 flights of stairs.

Once the elevator doors opened, we stepped in a maze of cavernous dimly lit tunnels. Small light bulbs hung from the ceiling providing just enough light to see a few feet in front of us. Wires dangle from the ceilings and walls alluding to unfinished construction. The bunker was originally dug out as part of the metro system. Every few minutes we could hear the roar and feel the vibrations of the metro zooming by a tunnel just feet away from where we were standing.
After wandering through the corridors, suddenly a large siren went off and red lights began flashing prompting jumps and screams from our group. With Russian commands barking over the loud speaker, it really gave us a sense that an attack was imminent.

Finally, we arrived at the command center. This bunker was the main center for communication in the event of a nuclear attack. Much of the original communication equipment is still in tact. A large picture of Stalin hangs on the wall and a Russian military jacket and hat rest on a chair.

We took the elevator back up to ground level, walked out into the bright sunlight and joined the pedestrians walking on the street that probably walked past here every day and had no idea what lies beneath them.

“White Nights” is the time of the year when the sun never completely sets in places of high latitude, including northern Russia. The days are very long, and there is never complete darkness.

On my first night in St. Petersburg last July, I was restless. Our dinner ended around 10:00PM (in broad daylight) and somewhere between jet lag and peeking behind the hotel curtains every 30 minutes, I did not get much sleep.

When I returned from the dinner to my room, I started looking out the window. Soon it was midnight, and I could still see so many people out on the streets. It was almost impossible to tell how late it was. As exhausted as I was, I had an urge of going out on the streets – and almost did! I felt like I was missing out on valuable time by staying in my room, but my rational side told me I needed some rest. I finally managed to take a nap until I woke up and saw the sun shining so bright that it made me jump out of bed thinking I was late. It was 4:45AM!

I have to say … it was worth not resting for one night - it is not everyday that you get to see dusk at 1:00AM. Not in Florida anyway. We hear so much about the White Nights, but actually seeing it is definitely a whole new experience. Plus, the bonus daylight hours give you extra energy for long days of touring – I found it all fascinating.

And a perk for those interested in arts are the top-notch performances that happen at the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg. The “Festival of the White Nights” happens between May and July, and includes a series of ballet, opera and concert events including Russian and international renowned performers. Performance fans should not miss this time of the year in St. Petersburg – it is truly fantastic.

Those who enjoy good vodka will always have a fabulous time in Russia. On my latest trip, we were able to enjoy a vodka tasting during our cruise on the Volga Dream. And it was worth a shot - no pun intended! I found the vodka tasting particularly interesting because we were learning some basic vodka facts, and then trying it.

First, we learned a few “ground rules”. Number one: Bottoms up. Russians drink vodka all in one shot – no sipping! Also, Russians never drink vodka without food - they do the shot, and then eat a salty snack (caviar and blinis go quite well). With this information, we were ready for our first shot of typical Russian vodka.

Also, Russians never drink alone - you have to have at least a couple of people to drink with you. As we had a fabulous group, we were ready for our second shot: some yellow-looking vodka that, as it turns out, was pepper-flavored. Yowza!

I was still recovering from the pepper taste when I learned that Russians do not consider any vodka that is less than 40% to be “real” vodka. We then had our third shot, a kind that is considered to be “ladies’ vodka” (as it is only 35%): Plum vodka. Interesting.

I also found out that the reason why we think that the Russian vodka tastes different is simply because it does! While many types of vodka are made from potatoes, Russian vodka is made from grains.

And finally, we cannot forget about another Russian tradition: You must always toast. Na zdorovje! (To your health), followed by the grand finale: Lime-flavored vodka.

When I wrote my previous email regarding packing, I should have mentioned the most important thing—the weight of the luggage. You always need to check with your specific carrier directly, but for most transatlantic flights you are allowed 50 lbs/bag in economy and 70 lbs/bag in business. The problem is, once you are overseas and traveling from country to country-the luggage allowance drops.

Most carriers within Europe allow 44 lbs TOTAL for the bags in economy and 66 lbs in business. Although I know it’s hard to pack efficiently for a long trip overseas, it’s best to do so, so you do not run into any problems or any extra expense. We have had instances where clients have incurred small overweight fees, so please be aware while packing.

My colleague, Kevan, always amazes everyone with his packing skills…he packs 7-10 days worth of clothes into a backpack size suitcase that he carries on the plane with him. Oh, and I forgot to mention that he usually always has a sport coat in there and none of his clothes are EVER wrinkled. So keep that in mind while packing for your trip and you’ll be sure to never be at risk for the dreaded overweight fees that are imposed by ALL the airlines!