Travel Russia Today

When in Budapest, a great place to visit (and shop – which I love!) is just a 30-minute drive from the city center: the town of Szentendre, where many artists work and live. The town is adorable, and there is a ton of interesting stuff to see and do there.

One of the most interesting things about shopping in Szentendre is that many times you can buy straight from the artist. So as I was strolling around (I was looking to buy a purse), I happen to see an artist carving a box that would be for sale later. Fascinated by how easy that was for him, I went into his shop to check out some of his work.

He had a lot of interesting wood work. Some of it was his, some were not. I had already selected some of his work to buy when I caught myself eyeing this very cute Christmas-themed music box. As I debated whether to buy it or not (the box was not his personal work), the artist offered to carve whatever I wanted on the box. I just loved the idea, and had him carve my name, my husband’s name, the town name and the year. It took him no longer than a minute to do it (I barely had time to take a picture!).

And before I knew it, I had such a personal Christmas box! Oh, and by the way, I also ended up finding a great purse!

I guess the fascination with fortresses comes from my childhood filled with books like ‘Ivanhoe’ by Walter Scott and ‘Crusaders’ by Henryk Sienkiewicz. Having the chance to travel extensively through the Balkans and study this region’s long and often violent history has been a real eye-opener in terms of the abundance and diversity of medieval fortifications in the area. This is not surprising, considering the region’s geographic location between Europe and Asia and at the epicenter of centuries-long clashes for political, economic, and religious domination.

When the Roman Empire conquered the Balkan Peninsula, its legions built a network of fortified garrisons located at strategic points on the borders, alongside the main trade routes (such as the Via Egnatia which crossed the entire peninsula from the Adriatic coast to Byzantium), and near mountain passes with commercial and military importance. Some of these ancient forts later grew to become settlements and towns which still exist; others were destroyed during the following ‘barbaric’ invasions; while others still were used as the foundations for later medieval fortifications.

During its greatest territorial expansion, the Byzantine Empire incorporated most of the Balkans and many of the fortresses still dotting the region today were erected in this period. Most impressive, without a doubt, were the defenses of the city of Constantinople itself. Back then, the capital of the Byzantine Empire was surrounded by thick walls on all sides which protected it from attacks from both land and sea, and which withstood numerous sieges before the Ottomans, using massive cannons, finally took the city. When visiting Istanbul, a tour of the land portion of the medieval walls, which is very well preserved, gives a unique historic perspective of this great city. For anyone interested in the epic siege of Constantinople by the Ottoman army and its dramatic fall, the book ‘1453’ by Roger Crowley makes a great reading.

Elsewhere throughout the region, impressive medieval fortresses are waiting to be discovered. Few of them are as well preserved as the castles in Germany, France, or England simply because once the Ottomans had the Balkan Peninsula conquered, they, with some exceptions, had no use for the fortifications which were either destroyed (in order not to be used as bases for local insurgencies) or fell into disrepair. Regions which at that time were under Austro-Hungarian or Venetian control, like Transylvania in Romania or the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia and Montenegro, had their castles and fortresses not only maintained, but also modernized and expanded. In Romania, Sighisoara’s Old Town and the fortified churches in Biertan and Prejmer are not to be missed. In Croatia, Dubrovnik’s famous Old Town has a jewel of a medieval fortress, but the Venetian forts of Zadar, Sibenik, and Trogir are also nicely preserved as are the walls of Kotor and Budva in Montenegro further south along the Adriatic coast.

In Bulgaria, Serbia, Macedonia, and Albania, which remained under Ottoman domination for centuries, only the largest and most strategic strongholds were maintained and still survive. In Bulgaria, these are the majestic Baba Vida fortress on the Danube River and the Tsarevets Castle Hill in Tarnovo. In Serbia’s capital Belgrade, the Kalemegdan is a true medieval citadel located on a hill at the confluence of the Danube and the Sava rivers. In Albania, the Kruje Fortress successfully withstood numerous sieges before being taken by the Ottomans and the citadels of Gjirokastra and Berati are very much worth a visit for anyone interested in the local history and culture.

In summary, one does not have to be a medieval warfare fanatic in order to pay a visit to some of the impressive fortresses scattered around the Balkan Peninsula. Unlike other historic and architectural monuments like palaces and monasteries, these sites, which were often the stages of bloody battles, give a different perspective of the people who once inhabited these areas and for whom defending their families and homes from invaders was simply a way of life.

When people travel to Russia, the one thing they worry the most about is the food. They want to be reassured that they will be able to eat at Italian, French or other International restaurants where they can feel safe. Yes, there are plenty of those, so if you are a militaristic vegan, vegetarian or just a squeamish fool, go there and eat yourself to boredom. If you are a true foodie, you will search for authentic local restaurants.

Russian cuisine might be slightly heavy, I admit, but then again, what’s wrong with that when you are on vacation? Believe me, you will walk it off at the Hermitage or the vast grounds of Kremlin. While you will get your portion of starch and fat, you will also be surprised about how good Russian vegetables are. I cannot tell you how much I love eating tomatoes in Russia. In the US, unless you buy them at a farmers market, the tomatoes seem to have lost their taste. And the bread, oh the bread! In Russia you will never get the pathetic, see-through, processed sponge people usually eat in America. Instead, every meal is accompanied by rich, dense black or rye bread that is so delicious you will have trouble leaving some room for the main dish.

Next to the home-made dinner with a local family in Suzdal, my all time favorite meal in Russia was at the Chekhov Restaurant in St. Petersburg. It started with a wide array of appetizers: lots of pickled vegetables, bread with lard, herring and sauerkraut with cranberries and apples. All of this was served with their special horseradish vodka, the multiple shots of which make it now harder to remember what I ordered afterwards. I believe I was so full that I only had borsch which I love to eat Ukrainian style with tons of sour cream. My Russian colleagues ordered a simple peasant dish – potatoes and mushrooms (a good option for vegetarians) and I am willing to bet that my colleague Lori had pelmeni (I don’t think she ever ordered anything else the entire time in Russia).

By the end of the trip, I became a huge fan of Russian cuisine. So much so, that upon returning home, I found a little Russian grocery store that has become my go-to place for bread and I always keep a bag of pelmeni in my freezer.

In a side street not far from Oslo City Hall is a store front that is reminiscent of an old town Main Street butcher. With an awning out front and a full sized stuffed reindeer in the window, an assortment of vacuum packed and fresh meats looks incredibly appetizing and is displayed in a way rarely seen in today’s refrigerated counters and sliding glass fronted cooler units.

Inside is a treasure trove of intriguing meats hanging from the ceiling, jellies, jams and cheeses all made from traditional Norwegian recipes and most using the best of local produce. For the traveler you can find an unusual souvenir in the form of vacuum packed dried reindeer meat - probably best if not served around Christmas to avoid shrieks of horror that Rudolph made it to the plate. This delicacy is a little strong but delicious when served on crackers with a slice of tomato and cucumber to cut the gamey taste (my own recipe).

You could spend an hour here quite easily exploring the shelves trying to figure out what everything is but one of the store’s best assets is its owner Eirik Bræk who delights in taking the time to explain and let you sample much of what he sells. Some of the cheese will have your nose and taste buds running wild (but you must try it) but Eirik is truly in his element when he introduces you to Smalahove.

This traditional Norwegian delicacy is generally enjoyed around Christmas and is made from a sheep’s head. How it gets to the stage whereby it can be eaten is a little stomach-churning – the fleece and skin are torched and the brain removed (a good thing - I think!). The head is salted and dried and then boiled for about 3 hours. Mashed potatoes are the side of choice. Not surprisingly the dish was originally eaten by peasants but as happens all too often, if you want to impress in this modern age, have Eirik prepare a batch of Smalahove for you to serve. Or even better allow his catering service to serve them for you.

The dish is now prepared using only the heads of lambs since the EU decided that older sheep may be susceptible to diseases that could (though never have) be transmitted to humans.
And just how do you eat Smalahove? One half of the head is one serving and you should start with the ear and eye which are best eaten warm (lots of fat here). Then work around the skull usually making your way from front to back. The tongue is truly considered to be the best part though Eirik says arguments can be quite heated since many considered the eyes to be the best – see no evil, speak no evil!

There is no better place to explore Norwegian food culture than Fenaknoken and almost certainly no-one better to explain it than Eirik. Be sure to drop by – it will be your most talked about stop in Oslo!

While in Croatia last month I had the opportunity to take the ferry over to Hvar. The island is known as the “sunniest spot in Europe” but as my luck would have it, it began to rain cats and dogs as soon as we set foot on the island. We attempted to do some sightseeing but gave up after visiting the Franciscan Monastery and tucked into the Adriana for a delicious lunch of tomato soup. After drying off, warming up and refueling we decided to brave the elements once again.

Mother Nature was not on our side as we attempted to see the Arsenal. It began to rain so hard the steps to the entrance became flooded as a river gushed down the stairs. We would have turned back except we had been promised there was a woman inside who was selling lavender knick knacks. Money had been burning a whole in our pockets all day and we could not take it any longer. All of us determined women joined hands and formed a human chain slowly ascending the treacherous waterfall. Our efforts were rewarded when we not only found the woman but also discovered a small bar serving great Croatian wine! This poor Croatian woman didn’t know what hit her as we stormed her display and scooped up everything in sight; lavender oils, lavender sachets, lavender doted chocolate and dried lavender.

After drying off a little again and enjoying our drinks, it was time to head back to the ferry. And although I cannot agree Hvar is the sunniest spot, I can agree it is a charming island and I now have the best scented sheets around.

Croatia is truly one of my favorite destinations – such a relaxing country, with delicious food and breathtaking natural beauty. When Jade, Leigh and I were there last November, we originally arrived in Zagreb and, afterwards, we drove down to Split. Although flying between the two cities is an option, I definitely recommend driving – mostly because you will have a chance to make a stop at the Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is totally worth all the fuss about it.

The park consists of 16 lakes inter-connected by several waterfalls, covering an area of over 70,000 acres! If you are a nature and scenery lover, you can easily spend an entire day there. I cannot tell you how many absolutely magnificent pictures I took – and I still think they do not do the park justice.

We were lucky to have such a GORGEOUS day with no rain or clouds. I say that not only because of my obsession with taking pictures, but the walking path – while very pleasant – would not have been so effortless under rain. Some of the paths are a little uneven, get slippery when wet and for the most part there are no handrails. In addition to that, some of the footbridges are made of logs - so make sure you wear comfortable walking shoes!

Our enjoyable walk ended by a lake and a boat ride followed – such an incredible view! At the end of the ride, we had to go up a lot of steps – so make sure you are prepared to get a workout! Oh, and do not forget to take some water with you.

A few months ago I had the pleasure of staying at the best hotel in the world (in my opinion)! The staff was top notch, the service was impeccable and the view from my room was unbelievable. Where was I? Budapest. And what hotel was I staying in............

The Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace!

With my job, I am lucky enough to travel the world and stay in some of the most luxurious and sophisticated hotels in the world such as the Ritz Carlton in Moscow, The Mandarin Oriental in Prague, and the Sacher in Vienna. Though every hotel deserves its awards and high remarks, I must say that the Gresham Palace is the best that I have seen thus far. The chandelier as you enter the lobby says it all- exquisite, beautiful and utterly refined!

The staff is so remarkable and on top of everything that they even try and memorize all of their guests schedules. How? I have no idea. For instance, one day I went out and it was raining terribly (I mean my shoes were soaked and my umbrella was of no help). I continued with my day for I had to work but when I returned to the hotel, tired and cold, much to my surprise and excitement the staff had prepared complimentary hot drinks such as coffee, tea, and my favorite hot chocolate (from real chocolate). They just understand the meaning of "customer service" and "pamper your guests".

This hotel prepares for the worst and delivers the best! If you are looking for a top notch hotel in a great European city, I HIGHLY recommend booking a night (or 5) at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace in Budapest.