Travel Russia Today

When one mentions Russia, the first images that pop into any one’s mind would be Moscow or St. Petersburg of course. I had the opportunity to explore the less frequented parts of Russia. Cruising on the Volga Dream, we sailed in elegant style from St. Petersburg to Moscow in seven days.

I must admit I was alarmed at first when arriving at the St. Petersburg port to see 15-20 vessels docked. But my worries were quickly dismissed once we departed and we felt like the only vessel for miles. How peaceful it was to drift along with views of gorgeous wooded areas mile after mile, only to be interrupted by a spectacular cathedral decorated with the traditional onion domes. We sailed so close to an old cathedral swallowed up by the Volga River we felt like we could reach out and touch it.

Along the 1800 kilometer journey, we entered 19 locks gently raising us to Moscow’s 200 meters above sea level. Each day brought new delights, with a stop in a new port. The ports varied from a small island created to be an open air museum with a breathtaking twenty-two domed wooden church to a small city which is part of the Golden Ring. All of the ports feature glimpse into the lives of rural Russians-whether past or present. The experience provided us a broader view of Russia beyond its two famous cities. Something everyone should consider when deciding to explore this vast country.

One of my favorite cities in Poland is Wroclaw. It’s got all the charm of Krakow, but without the typical tourist hoards. It really feels like a true local experience. 2010 is a big year for those interested in Wroclaw’s Jewish Heritage, as it will see the reopening of the synagogue, which has been completely restored. I was able to do a quick walk-through on my visit last month and it’s truly going to be spectacular. This was once one of the largest synagogues in the German Empire (remember that Wroclaw was once the German city of Breslau) and was a center of liberal Judaism.

We have always had a bit of a challenge with hotels here, but the opening of two new properties in the past year has made this city very comfortable for our visitors.

Located in one of the most beautiful art nouveau buildings in the city, the Monopol opened this past April and is truly the cream of the crop in Wroclaw. This hotel is from the same family that owns the Copernicus and Stary in Krakow, two of our favorite hotels, and you can see their signature touches in this hotel as well. The historic façade belies the interior of dark marble, stark furnishings and contemporary touches.

Most room sizes are generous and have wood floors. My Classic Suite had gorgeous exposed brick elements and a lovely arch leading from the sleeping area to the living area. My only complaint would be the lack of furniture. The “living room” of the suite consisted of one chair, albeit comfortable, and a footstool. I was impressed by the compact, but luxurious bathroom. A separate bathtub and rainfall shower was quite nice and mine had a window, which allowed natural light into the relatively dark space.

The spa here is beautiful and I had a delicious dinner at the high-end seafood restaurant on the top floor with its panoramic views of Wroclaw. There is a fine dining restaurant with traditional Polish food on the ground floor as well as a chic bar.

For guests who appreciate a contemporary hotel, this is a great pick.

The Granary – La Suite Hotel has an unfortunate mouthful of a name, but I liked the simple elegance of the property. It just opened on November 9th and is on a small side street, approximately 10 minutes on foot from the Old Town Square. This hotel is perfect for those with mobility issues, as it is completely wheelchair accessible. As the name indicates, it is in a former medieval granary and they have used elements of the original building in the décor.

Rooms here are all-suite, making them some of the largest in the city. With only 47 rooms, it retains a boutique-hotel feel. Furnishings tend toward contemporary, but are more comfortable and welcoming than found in many similar hotels. The suites are spacious and some are located under a wall of glass, making them filled with light.

A small restaurant and fitness center round out the offerings here. It’s the perfect hotel for families or for those who need a bit of extra space. Those who are driving themselves might find the entrance (and parking lot) a bit difficult to navigate – even my driver had difficulties with the narrow space.

These two hotels are a welcome addition to this beautiful city.

On this day, twenty years ago, my sister, three aunts and I were supposed to deliver a birthday cake for my cousin who was born on November 17 - a day that commemorates the tragic death of Jan Opletal, a student killed by the Nazis during the occupation and that has since become The International Day of Students. It was 1989 and people, mainly students, took to the streets turning the celebration of the Students' Day into a protest against the communist regime that was still desperately holding on to the power.

My aunts and I decided that the birthday party would have to wait a bit since we wanted to support the protesters. I was barely a teenager then and felt huge pride for being able to join the demonstration. It was the first time I really looked at people around me and felt a common bond. Before that no one on the streets of Prague would look into your eyes, nobody would engage in a conversation with a stranger. Now we were screaming in unison and demanded freedom. The feeling of change about to come was palpable, for me there was no question about it - it was in the smiles and the excitement of people around me. Some of the leaders of the demonstration decided to move from Vysehrad down to the center towards Narodni Avenue. A few minutes later, there were rumors of police and militia blocking the streets to contain the protestors. It was then that my aunts made the call to leave and finally deliver the now slightly damaged cake.

Later that evening, we found out from my grandmother who had stayed longer that people were brutally beaten as the orders came to stop the demonstration at all cost. My grandmother was saved by a stranger who unlocked the entrance door to an apartment building and took peoplein. I felt slightly embarrassed that I was saved by a cake, but I guess I should not complain. The events of that day led to more protests and eventually the end of the Communist rule in Czechoslovakia.

Today, I remember November 17 along with the whole country and I am grateful that it is only history now. People are free to celebrate or protest, voice their opinion and travel whenever and wherever they like. They are free to vote and free to be unsatisfied with the government. They are even free to scream at the current president as one of the student leaders did yesterday. And that is something to celebrate!

Oh, and happy birthday, cousin!

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience a Russian winter, you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you set out east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the rooflines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming hot cup of chocolate or warming broth would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built, temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The question of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice, of course, is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

When I travel, I absolutely love experiences that are a little off the beaten track. My favorites are the ones that are closed to the public – it does not get much more exclusive and unique than that. On my last trip to Russia, I was able to experience a handful of these. One of the most extraordinary ones was a visit to the Maltese Chapel.

The Maltese Chapel is part of the Vorontsov Palace, built in the 18th century. The Palace houses Russia’s most important military school, the Suvorov Military Academy. Our tour was led personally by the chaplain of the Academy’s church, Father Alexander.

The beauty of this chapel made me feel super special for being in such an exclusive place. We even got to touch ancient books that would normally be protected by a glass screen or guards making sure you do not get too close. And since the cadets were on summer break, we also got to see the part of the Military Academy where they sleep, and even their little gym!

But for me personally, the best part was knowing that we helped support the Children’s Hospice charity, founded by Father Alexander in 2003. The charity provides relief for terminally ill children and their parents, along with making the children’s last wishes come true. The visit to the Academy may be arranged through Exeter for a set donation that goes entirely to the Children’s Hospice.

It is great to know that having fun actually made a difference this time around!

I had the pleasure of traveling on the Golden Eagle train on the Trans-Siberian Express Railway in September. I joined the trip in the town of Irkutsk. After arriving from Moscow at 5:00 in the morning to freezing temperatures, I had a few hours to freshen up (and bundle up), before the train arrived.

Irkutsk is known as the “Paris of Siberia”. Today, this is clearly an overstatement, but in the late 19th century, after the Decembrist revolt, the city became a forced home to the many exiled intellectuals and prominent figures and grew into a cultural center of Siberia.

We started our day by visiting a few of the local churches there as well as the Gagarin Embankment. After lunch we visited the Alexander III monument commemorating the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway and explored some of the wooden houses and architecture around Irkutsk. We were given some time to wander around the market hall before ending our day at the mansion of Decembrist Prince Volkonsky which concluded with a private concert there. It was a nice way to end the first day of this amazing journey.

I must say though, of all the cities and towns that I visited on the trek back to Moscow, Irkutsk was my least favorite. I’m glad I went because I can now say “I’ve been to Irkutsk” but it’s a place that’s not high on my places to return list.

The restaurant scene in Prague has always been slightly irritating to me. It is only recently that it has stabilized and you will find the same restaurants exactly where you left them couple years ago. One of my favorite restaurants in Prague and a true constant in the city, is the Café and Pub At the Hanging Coffee in the Castle District. I loved it as a student and I love it now. It has always stayed true to what it is supposed to be – a great neighborhood pub with wonderful beer and food.

The story behind the name tells you how laid back this place is: A person eats his or her lunch, orders a coffee and then pays his bill adding one more coffee to it – leaving it “hanging”. A broke person can come in and ask: is there a coffee hanging here? If there is, he gets to drink it for free.

The restaurant offers authentic, no-nonsense Czech cuisine. If you are not hungry enough for half duck with cherry sauce, red cabbage and dumplings, you can sip your beer and munch on a herring or pickled cheese. Try to leave some room for dessert, their fruit dumplings are delicious.

So now you know where to get a cup of coffee if you lose your wallet in Prague!

During my last visit to Moscow, I had the pleasure of visiting the Grand Kremlin Palace, the Faceted Chamber and Terem. This is the official residence of the Russian president and is completely closed to the public. Except for Exeter guests, of course! While Russian President Dmitry Medvedev does not actually live there, this is where he entertains his guests and where he hosts visits and meetings. Our own President was there just a week before us! In fact, our guide at the Grand Kremlin Palace was very fond of Obama and very excited about his visit.

One of the first rooms we saw was the Faceted Chamber, which used to be the main banquet and reception hall of the Tzars. This beautiful room, which now holds receptions, is covered with murals that were painted by Palekh craftsmen in the 19th century and that capture the most important events of Russian history.

One of the things you will notice is that all throughout the Grand Kremlin Palace the parquet floors are very well taken care of and absolutely flawless. They are essentially an attraction on their own. We were asked to stand on the red carpet in order to preserve the beautiful floor.

Two halls in particular took my breath away. First, I entered St. Alexander Hall, created in honor of Alexander Nevsky. Its walls are decorated with artificial pink marble and gilded bust columns. This room was one of the most exquisite places I had even been in.

But… just as I thought I had seen the most beautiful room in my life, I entered St. Andrew’s Hall – the throne room. This room was restored in the 1990’s and is so powerful and overwhelming that even if I was allowed to take a picture, it would never do it justice. While the whole palace is stunning, this room was by far my favorite and the most breathtaking one. I literally could have sat there for hours just staring.

While all of us here in the office work long hours to make sure that our clients have wonderful vacation and all last minute bookings go smoothly, one of our colleagues is enjoying a weeklong journey on the luxurious Trans-Siberian Express. Do I sound jealous? That is because I am. Maybe a vacation in a region that is mostly associated with freezing cold and labor camps is not what you are looking for, but from her daily emails, I know that Lori is enjoying her trip beyond expectations. I invite you to come back to our blog in a few days to read her report about flying all across Russia to Irkutsk, about visiting the Opera House and the Railway Museum in Novosibirsk, learning Russian on board of the train and much more.
The Trans-Siberian Express offers several journeys through Siberia and Central Asia, the longest one runs along the Silk Road all the way to Beijing and features visits to such wonderful sites like the Bukhara Madrassa, the Registan Square of Samarkand or the Terrakota Warriors in Xian.

In the Taganskaya area of the Moscow, stands an apartment building on a street corner. This building appears to be typical of every other building on the block but it does hold a secret. A 1950’s era cold war bunker is located 20 stories below. The only visible sign from ground level is the army green gate with a red star on it.

Once we were granted entrance (appointments are necessary), we were ushered in and then an enormous door was slammed shut and locked behind us letting us just how secure this site once was. My companions and I squeezed into a small elevator with our guide who was appropriately dressed in the traditional Russian army garb of green and red. We were delighted we did not have to climb down (or back up) 20 flights of stairs.

Once the elevator doors opened, we stepped in a maze of cavernous dimly lit tunnels. Small light bulbs hung from the ceiling providing just enough light to see a few feet in front of us. Wires dangle from the ceilings and walls alluding to unfinished construction. The bunker was originally dug out as part of the metro system. Every few minutes we could hear the roar and feel the vibrations of the metro zooming by a tunnel just feet away from where we were standing.
After wandering through the corridors, suddenly a large siren went off and red lights began flashing prompting jumps and screams from our group. With Russian commands barking over the loud speaker, it really gave us a sense that an attack was imminent.

Finally, we arrived at the command center. This bunker was the main center for communication in the event of a nuclear attack. Much of the original communication equipment is still in tact. A large picture of Stalin hangs on the wall and a Russian military jacket and hat rest on a chair.

We took the elevator back up to ground level, walked out into the bright sunlight and joined the pedestrians walking on the street that probably walked past here every day and had no idea what lies beneath them.

“White Nights” is the time of the year when the sun never completely sets in places of high latitude, including northern Russia. The days are very long, and there is never complete darkness.

On my first night in St. Petersburg last July, I was restless. Our dinner ended around 10:00PM (in broad daylight) and somewhere between jet lag and peeking behind the hotel curtains every 30 minutes, I did not get much sleep.

When I returned from the dinner to my room, I started looking out the window. Soon it was midnight, and I could still see so many people out on the streets. It was almost impossible to tell how late it was. As exhausted as I was, I had an urge of going out on the streets – and almost did! I felt like I was missing out on valuable time by staying in my room, but my rational side told me I needed some rest. I finally managed to take a nap until I woke up and saw the sun shining so bright that it made me jump out of bed thinking I was late. It was 4:45AM!

I have to say … it was worth not resting for one night - it is not everyday that you get to see dusk at 1:00AM. Not in Florida anyway. We hear so much about the White Nights, but actually seeing it is definitely a whole new experience. Plus, the bonus daylight hours give you extra energy for long days of touring – I found it all fascinating.

And a perk for those interested in arts are the top-notch performances that happen at the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg. The “Festival of the White Nights” happens between May and July, and includes a series of ballet, opera and concert events including Russian and international renowned performers. Performance fans should not miss this time of the year in St. Petersburg – it is truly fantastic.

Those who enjoy good vodka will always have a fabulous time in Russia. On my latest trip, we were able to enjoy a vodka tasting during our cruise on the Volga Dream. And it was worth a shot - no pun intended! I found the vodka tasting particularly interesting because we were learning some basic vodka facts, and then trying it.

First, we learned a few “ground rules”. Number one: Bottoms up. Russians drink vodka all in one shot – no sipping! Also, Russians never drink vodka without food - they do the shot, and then eat a salty snack (caviar and blinis go quite well). With this information, we were ready for our first shot of typical Russian vodka.

Also, Russians never drink alone - you have to have at least a couple of people to drink with you. As we had a fabulous group, we were ready for our second shot: some yellow-looking vodka that, as it turns out, was pepper-flavored. Yowza!

I was still recovering from the pepper taste when I learned that Russians do not consider any vodka that is less than 40% to be “real” vodka. We then had our third shot, a kind that is considered to be “ladies’ vodka” (as it is only 35%): Plum vodka. Interesting.

I also found out that the reason why we think that the Russian vodka tastes different is simply because it does! While many types of vodka are made from potatoes, Russian vodka is made from grains.

And finally, we cannot forget about another Russian tradition: You must always toast. Na zdorovje! (To your health), followed by the grand finale: Lime-flavored vodka.

When I wrote my previous email regarding packing, I should have mentioned the most important thing—the weight of the luggage. You always need to check with your specific carrier directly, but for most transatlantic flights you are allowed 50 lbs/bag in economy and 70 lbs/bag in business. The problem is, once you are overseas and traveling from country to country-the luggage allowance drops.

Most carriers within Europe allow 44 lbs TOTAL for the bags in economy and 66 lbs in business. Although I know it’s hard to pack efficiently for a long trip overseas, it’s best to do so, so you do not run into any problems or any extra expense. We have had instances where clients have incurred small overweight fees, so please be aware while packing.

My colleague, Kevan, always amazes everyone with his packing skills…he packs 7-10 days worth of clothes into a backpack size suitcase that he carries on the plane with him. Oh, and I forgot to mention that he usually always has a sport coat in there and none of his clothes are EVER wrinkled. So keep that in mind while packing for your trip and you’ll be sure to never be at risk for the dreaded overweight fees that are imposed by ALL the airlines!

I just returned from Russia, and I would like to say that one of the most intriguing places that I visited this time was the Cold War Bunker. If you are interested in Military History, or simply in a historic location that is very exciting and at the same time a break from the Museum–Palace route, I definitely recommend a stop at this recently-opened Bunker.

The entrance is deceivingly small. First, you hop on an elevator (or stairs, if you are up for it) and go down 18 floors to the Bunker. A series of long tunnels and metal stairs followed, while our Bunker guide told us more about its history. It is particularly fascinating to hear the Metro running above your head!! The very dark and cold tunnels got particularly scary at one point when suddenly all the lights shut off and the very loud emergency alarm went off! I just stood there… and I am glad it was completely dark, as I am sure I had a total “deer in the headlights” moment. My feeling was that the subway was going to come and run the deer (me) over but, as it turns out, it was no real emergency. Phew!

At the end, we were taken to a room for a wonderful special treat! The Red Army Choir was singing some Russian classics just for us. They were so talented and enthusiastic, and they completely put us in the mood for the vodka, tea and kasha (a porridge commonly eaten in Eastern Europe) that were waiting for us at the end.

The perfect end to such a unique day!

Parked at the end of the runway at Amsterdam's Teuge airport, the IIyushin 18 has become the newest addition to the luxury hotel market. Ben Thijssen, a Dutch entrepreneur, converted the 131-foot long plane into a 5-star hotel suite.

For approximately $500 per night, you can stay in one of the most unique and exciting hotels in all the world- an airplane! Amenities include 3 flat-screen televisions, wireless internet, a kitchenette, an infrared sauna, and of course a whirlpool- I mean what plane doesn't have a whirlpool!

The "Airplane Hotel" opens for reservations on August 1, 2009. Book your room (or cabin) today!

Have you ever dreamed of being pampered in the absolute middle of nowhere in the depths of winter? If so then Villa Säikkärä could be for you.

Located in Lapland and about 45 minutes from the airport that services the small town of Rovaniemi, this tranquil location is located on the end of the Säikkäräniemi headland a formation shaped by the Ice Age. The spot has been used for festivities by the indigenous Sámi for centuries. The historical setting and stunning surrounding natural spectacle will leave any guest speechless. It feels as though time has stood still here.

Inside Villa Säikkärä, this same timeless atmosphere continues. The cozy high class log-built villa accommodates and caters for its guests while respecting traditions in the appropriate manner. Lappish hospitality is provided by the Säikkärä host, Risto Kauppinen, who personally receives his guests. It is a matter of honour for the host to ensure his guests enjoy their stay and experience the true Lappish atmosphere.

The villa has 6 double rooms, a spacious combined living and dining room with a big fireplace, a special cigar terrace and separate sauna building with 4 showers and a fireplace.
In the wintertime, huskies, reindeer or snowmobiles take the Villa Säikkärä guests through untouched snowy landscapes, and the waterways provide ice fishing experiences.

In the evening indulge in a traditional Finnish sauna right at the villa. The tradition of the sauna, carried on unbroken for about two thousand years, is deeply rooted in the Finns' way of life. Sauna bathing is part of the Finnish identity just as essentially as rye bread is part of the customary diet. In Villa Säikkärä you can enjoy the relaxing heat and the peaceful atmosphere in this private sauna.

You might also want to take a dip in the lake water – yes, even in winter! A large hole is made in the ice which provides a unique experience and the opportunity to feel the cold waters of the northen lake. You can also try rolling in the snow outside the sauna - it will “sure make your blood run” as the Finns say! After the sauna rediscover your sanity relaxing in a cozy room with an open fire place.

During your stay you can make use of the snow shoes supplied in the villa but for some real adventure arrangements can be made to explore the countryside on dog hauled sleds or on snowmobiles. You can also visit a reindeer farm and experience the joy of riding on a sleigh pulled by reindeer.

For those lucky enough to stay at the villa over Christmas a private visit to Santa Clause in his nearby office can be arranged after which you have a chance to shop in Santa’s Village or sit back and enjoy lunch in the village accompanied by a heart warming glass of Salmiakki-Kossu or Salmari, prepared by mixing in salty black salmiakki licorice, whose taste masks the alcohol behind it fearfully well. Or play it safe and try the non-alcoholic Pommac, an unusual soda made from (according to the label) "mixed fruits", which you'll either love or hate. But you have to try it to know for sure.

The highlight of any Christmas Eve stay will be when you hear the jingling of bells, at first in the distance, but slowly approaching the villa and looking out of the snow framed window you will see Santa Clause arriving on his reindeer-drawn sleigh for a private visit before setting off on his trip around the world. You will soon find out just how good you have been this year!

All of us here at Exeter International, including myself, have been lucky enough to see and experience some of the most extraordinary things in the world. I have met with a KGB colonel (in the former KGB building), had dinner at Catherine Palace on New Years and toured Stalin's personal bunker. I am turning 30 years old and compared to most of my friends, I have lived life to the fullest!

With everything I have seen and done, I have to say our most "extraordinary experiences" are:

1. Private Tour of the KGB Museum with a retired KGB colonel (and don't let him fool you, he knows English)
2. Private Tour of Stalin's Bunker
3. Entrance to the Grand Kremlin Palace and Terem (located on the Kremlin grounds and STRICTLY closed to the public)
4. Backstage tour of the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg (if you are lucky like me, you can even try on one of the costumes)
5. Hermitage Storage Rooms
6. The Amber Rooms Workshops of Catherine Palace
   
7. VIP entrance to the Strahov Monastery in Prague
8. Private Wine Tasting at the Matusko Family vineyard
   
9. Truffle Hunting in Livade
10. Private tour of the Maltese Chapel of Vorontsov Palace and the Suvorov Military Academy

If you are looking for something different, something beyond the ordinary than you are looking for us. We are the famous for making our travelers say "That was the best trip of my life!"

You never know what the future holds. We all believe that "it will never happen to me" but guess what, it does! Through the years, I have seen cancellations due to health complications, divorce, loss of job, natural disaster and worst of all death. Chances are you will probably be fine and the trip will go off without a hitch but what if it doesn't?

As a tour operator, we follow a strict cancellation policy for we have to protect the hotels, guides, car services, and most of all the time the staff has taken to put together this fabulous trip. Even though you did not take the trip, the guides that we booked still have to paid!

Typically, travel insurance equates to about 10% of your total trip costs. For those of you that have not purchased travel insurance, this probably looks like a ton of money (I know you are computing the numbers and yes it is about $1,000 for a $10,000 trip). However, lets look at it a different way- what it you do have to cancel that trip? Our cancellation policy states ZERO refunds on any trip canceled less than 14 days out. This means you have lost $10,000 and you were not even at a table in Vegas having a great time.

In the end, BUY THE INSURANCE. It is the safest and smartest purchase and much more important than that upgrade to a 2-bedroom suite.

A while ago I wrote a blog about what to do with children when you go to Prague. Now, despite the fact that I do not have any children myself and am generally immune to their supposed cuteness, I want to give you some profoundly insightful advice about what to do before you actually get there. Make them read about Prague!

If your children read stories about Prague and its history before they travel, they will be looking forward to the trip, they will feel smart and engaged when the guide tells them something they already read about, and they will be able to see things from a totally different perspective. Although the American publishers, to my chagrin, generally ignore contemporary Czech writers (except for Kundera), there is a good number of original or translated books for children available in English.

One of my favorite authors is the critically acclaimed writer and illustrator Peter Sís. His Three Golden Keys (ages 4-8) will undoubtedly excite your children’s imagination and expose them to legends about the magical city of Prague, including the one about Golem or the brave prince Bruncvik and his friend, the two-tailed lion that became the symbol of the Czech State. Another wonderful book is The Wall: Growing Up Behind the Iron Curtain (ages 8 and up) inspired by Mr. Sís’s own transformation from an innocent and clueless child into a rebellious teen and an aspiring artist whose hopes are crushed by the Soviet invasion in 1968. Once your children read these books, they will understand more of what they are seeing in Prague and what formed the people they encounter there and you will be spared their yawns and eye-rolls in the museums, synagogues and churches.

A Russian winter is truly spectacular (see my last posting) and this Winter Wonderland extends far from the main cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg and the countryside surrounding them. To really experience this incredible season and truly be able to say you have experienced a Russian winter you need to venture into the vast wilderness that is Siberia and beyond.

As you venture east from Moscow, there continue to be pockets of civilization – Kazan the capital of Tartarstan with its own Kremlin (not as strong and powerful as Moscow’s but every bit as historical and a UNESCO World Heritage site). Here the snow glistens on the minarets of a mosque sitting side by side with an onion domed church, elegant icicles dangling from the roof lines of both without distinction.

A little further east is the European / Asia divide, the spot where two great continents meet. Locals dressed in somewhat hokey costumes and sporting megaphones to be sure you can hear them, recreate the Russian tradition of welcoming you with bread and salt. Of course a steaming cup of hot chocolate or vegetable soup would seem to be more appropriate in the rapidly tumbling temperatures and crisp white snow covering the ground but bread and salt it is and bread and salt it will always be.

The town closest to this geographical celebration is Yekaterinburg, the third largest city in Russia and best known for being the location where the last Tsar was executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. (A rather Disneyesque church marks the spot).

A sense of modernity continues in Novosibirsk but winter is obviously harsher here. Perhaps it is the fact that Novosibirsk is a relatively modern city and lacks the romanticism of what has gone before. In front of the largest opera house in the world, ice hangs from the statue of Lenin. Can it possibly get any colder!

Yes it can…..heading east from Novosibirsk is the great emptiness of fame – Siberia! Miles and miles (hundreds and thousands of miles) of emptiness are stunningly beautiful and appallingly cold. From time to time you come across a lone wooden house or small community, snow drifts reaching towards the roof, smoke from a raw fire snaking from chimneys and a horse standing in snow up to its hocks. Hallmark can only dream of such scenes gracing the front of their winter season cards.

You might think that this bitter cold would cause people to curl up and hibernate for five months but exactly the opposite. Yes, the days are short but instead of the dreary wet slushy winters so many urbanites face year after year, in this part of the world winter comes with lots of sunshine between snow showers, the snow remains crisp and clean, trees are permanently clad in white and the locals love to get their cross country skis out or strap a troika to the back of their horses and get out and enjoy this magnificent beauty.

Lake Baikal, one of the world’s natural phenomena (and the deepest lake in the world) actually freezes over in the depth of winter. It takes a little getting used to, being able to safely walk far out from the shore but if it can handle the weight of a train (before the rail track that circumvents the lake was built temporary tracks were laid across the lake in winter for a short cut), it can certainly handle the weight of an average human being!

The questions of course is how to do all of this in reasonable comfort. Mastering the roads on a self-drive expedition is not advisable and therefore out of the question. You can independently travel by rail from point to point, stopping off for a day or two to meet the locals, braving bitingly cold wind swept rail platforms and pouring over timetables waiting for the next local train service to points onward sharing toilets on board and improving your Russian as food carts pass by or you try to navigate the Russian only menu in the restaurant car (cash only, please). Or you can use the same rail tracks and journey on board the private Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express with heated en-suite bathrooms in every cabin, lounge and bar car to relax and view that stunning countryside and three good meals a day prepared on board and served in the well appointed dining cars, accompanied by wines - all included.

The choice of course is yours and each has their own budget but which ever way you do this trip, just be sure to do it – the magnificence of a true Russian winter will stay with you for ever.

Just 5 years ago, our typical traveler was retired, well educated, well traveled and about 65 years old. Oh, how the things have changed. More and more we find ourselves planing trips for travelers of all ages, especially those between 5 and 15. We have had to reevaluate our programs and explore new options such as making your own matryoshka doll in Russia or creating your own marionette in Prague.

A few of the biggest challenges with planning a trip for multiple generations is:

1. Keeping everyone interested in the program- I'm bored is the last thing a parent wants to hear on a $30,000 trip. Our goal is to find out as much as possible about each traveler. Though the parents are paying for the trip and will ultimately have the final say on what will be planned, we still want to understand what the children like and more importantly dislike!
   
2. Finding a hotel with connecting rooms or multiple bedrooms- With all the new hotels popping up across Eastern & Central Europe and Russia, we are finding more and more options for family accommodations. A few of the hotels even stock the hotel rooms with games, toys and if need be a crib (best bet for this is the Four Seasons in Prague- they know how to make a kid (& parent) happy).
3. Keeping within the budget- We understand that planning a trip for the entire family can be quite expensive. Our consultants are experts in cutting costs and helping you save a few dollars! For the 2009 season, we developed a new program called "Go Green". This program not only promotes the environment but also saves you money. Our Go Green programs promote the use of public transportation, such as the metro, bus or taxi, instead of using private cars. This in turn saves the traveler about $500-800 per day and more importantly helps to save the environment.

So when you begin putting together your family travels this year, think about Exeter. We are your one stop shop for family fun.

While touring Prague last summer, we found ourselves in the very crowded Old Town Square around lunch. There were charming cafes everywhere but it appeared that all the outdoor seating was taken. I was with a Prague resident who told me she had just the place to go. I must confess I was quite disappointed when she lead me into a dark hallway of the U Prince hotel and got onto an elevator. It was so beautiful outside, the last place I wanted to be was in a dark air conditioned hotel restaurant. I was pleasantly surprised when the elevator doors opened to the outside and a set of stairs. We climbed the stairs and I gasped as I looked around and realized I had a 360 degree view of Old Town and the rest of Prague before me. The rooftop terrace had seating for about forty people and most tables had umbrellas to shade you from the sun. After being seated and looking across all the red terra cotta tiles, I realized I had a clear view to the castle district.

The menu was lengthy with a good mix of traditional Czech specialties and continental food. Of course, all of the food tasted even better when matched with the Czech beer, Pilsner Urquell. After lunch we took advantage of the view and captured some gorgeous pictures of the area. We then descended back down to the town square. Instantly we were engulfed by the crowds and for an instance we debated about retreating back to our new found sanctuary.

It was February and I was in Russia!

Most people that know this think I am stark raving mad. Who in their right mind goes touring in Russia in February?

Well, you might have to be a little crazy but more importantly you need REALLY GOOD footwear and thermal socks (these will quickly become your best friend's). Of course while your packing the socks don’t forget a good overcoat. It doesn’t have to be a sable or mink though you will see plenty of those in Russia during the winter. A good hiking jacket will work but you will need long thermals to keep the lower nethers warm if your coat doesn’t extend further south than your waist. And of course a hat…..a silly looking woolly tam that you can pull down over your ears works well but I can almost guarantee you will come home with a Russian style fur hat with flaps. Which looks sillier? – you can be the judge of that but the fur (real and synthetic) hats with ear flaps are everywhere in Russia and work a treat.

Once you have the right clothing the rest is easy. Russia in winter is simply magical. It can snow almost every day, several times a day or just all day. A blanket of white covers everything and you expect Dr Zhivago to come strolling across the park at any moment. The gilded domes of churches and the gold filigree on palace gates shines in stark contrast to the milky skies and snow covered trees and ground.

Is it really that cold – yes, you’d better believe it is, especially when you get away from the cities and towns and out into the countryside, but somehow the fact that you are in Russia in the middle of winter makes the searing cold perfectly fine. After all isn’t that what you expected?

You won’t want to walk too far but the scene will beckon you to stroll through parks and along streets watching children slide down the snow covered hillocks or being pulled along on sleds behind their parents. Of course not everyone has time for fun and as often as not that sled will be carrying the weekly shopping. Horse drawn sleighs are common place – in the countryside anyway. While they are there for the tourists there are so few tourists that they are really a means of daily transport for the locals. In some rural locales you either ride in a sleigh or propel yourself on cross country skis.

Yes, the city streets are often slushy and only half their normal width with snow accumulated on either side of the road but canals are spectacularly frozen over (even the major rivers carry a surprising amount of ice at this time of the year) and parks glisten in the little sun that makes its way to the frozen earth.

Don’t ever hesitate to travel to Russia in winter. It is a completely different world and the beauty far outweighs any inconvenience. A bonus - you will have the museums almost to yourself. And guess what? – the Russians love heating! You will never be so happy to walk outside into that cold crisp air.

One of the most adorable cities in Croatia is also one that is often overlooked. Located along the Dalmatian coast, the town of Trogir is absolutely fascinating, with a culture that was created under Greek, Roman and Venetian influence. When visiting, you may notice that pretty much every window and every doorway in Trogir is a piece of art.

Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can easily be done as a day trip from Split. One of my absolute favorite sites was the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, a Roman Catholic cathedral that is the most imposing monument of Trogir. Bearing a Romanesque façade, the cathedral was built between the 12th and 17th century and is part of the town’s history.

Our group was lucky enough to have Ivo for a guide in Split; and wow, did he treat us nicely! After showing us around this exquisite Cathedral, he excused himself and basically vanished through a door in the back. We were all still busy looking around and admiring the cathedral when we looked up… and there was our guide playing the church’s huge pipe organ – which is centuries old! It was absolutely beautiful and I have to confess, it brought tears to my eyes.

In addition to admiring the town’s beauty, when you do make it to Trogir, please make sure to take a leisure walk around the city streets and buy one of their super cheap, yet delicious ice cream cones. I recommend you try the Kinder Egg flavor – yum!

Most of us want to be able to say that we traveled the world, right? Well, I know I do but it seems that I may be my own obstacle. It seems that in the last few years, I have been planning trips to the same places over and over and over again (the beach!). I think most of us find that ONE place in the world (Mexico, Paris, London, etc.) that feels comfortable. Feels relaxing. Feels like home. Unfortunately, this process will not enable us to see the world.

My message today is get out there- see the world! Venture beyond your comfort zones and plan a trip to an exotic, off the beaten track place such as Estonia or even better Georgia (and I mean the country, not the state). When I first joined Exeter about 6 years ago, I couldn't even point out most of our destinations on a map. Now, I can tell you where they are and more importantly why you should see them.

Be one of those exclusive travelers that is able to sit at a table and talk about a trip that no-one else has been on or even thought of. Go beyond the ordinary and see the extraordinary.

Slovenia seems to slide under the radar for most people traveling to central Europe. If you ask anyone brave enough to guess they will usually assume it is one of the previously war torn countries of the Balkans but most people will have no clue as to its whereabouts or its existence.

But Slovenia is an absolute gem. Hidden between Austria and Croatia it offers some of the most gorgeous scenery to be found and is worth a stop in any itinerary. A short 35 minute flight from Vienna (or 90 minute drive from Zagreb) takes you to Ljubljana the capital of Slovenia. But the brightest point in the gem is Lake Bled.

A dreary day will provide dramatic views as the clouds form a table cloth over the mountains but on a clear sunny day you are surely in for a treat. This is the stuff of postcards! The Julian Alps loom high over the lake and when conditions are right the lake traps them and reflects the majestic image on the calm surface.

While summer is more likely to guarantee better weather, the spring and fall mean less crowds. Strolling along the lake side with this magnificent backdrop will forever be remembered.

And there is more to do than just stroll and gaze at the breathing scenery. A medieval castle, complete with drawbridge and moat and that dates back to 1004, keeps watch from the top of the cliffs on the north shore and is worth a visit. In the courtyard you will find Dickensian stores with artists who still practice traditional manual printing techniques with a wooden press. Warm summer nights often feature classical concerts under perfect star lit skies.

The other main attraction here sits in the middle of the lake on Slovenia’s only natural island – the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary. A Pletna carries you across the lake and 99 stone steps (or a more gentle rampway) take you up to the church. It is traditional for grooms to carry their new brides up the 99 steps to ensure a happy marriage and fun to watch them try. Once inside the church ringing the bell will fulfill one of your wishes – only one wish per ring please!

End the day with a delicious sundae or ice cold Zlatorog (the local beer) at one of the local sidewalk cafes and as you watch the world go by you will understand how you happened upon one of the lesser known but remarkable sites of central Europe.

When I visited Prague last November, one of the most pleasurable experiences I had was the visit to a glass artist’s manor and gallery. Manto’s work will definitely wow you and, trust me, you will have an even more amazing time hanging out with him and his wife.

I joined a group of ladies that were visiting the manor on that day. We even got to see a video of how he works on the glass – he does it so naturally you would think it is that easy! But the best part was towards the end, when, after drinks (for inspiration!), we all got to make our own piece of art. Manto will walk you through what is needed to have one of the most personable souvenirs you can bring back from your trip to Prague. And with at risk of sounding pretentious… mine turned out beautiful and it is now on display in my house. And, of course, at the end you get to autograph his artist wall.

I also had a chance to visit his gallery a week before the grand opening! The gallery is located in a baroque house in old Prague, within walking distance of the Mandarin Oriental hotel where I was staying. The gallery holds some of his most fantastic work, and is very much worth checking out.

Manto is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Prior to my first trip to Russia, I was so excited to get there and see this amazing country, but on the inside, I was quite nervous about one thing—the food. I don’t think I’m a picky eater, but after comparing my diet with those I work with…I am extremely picky. As you know, Russia is known for its caviar and vodka-two things that I do NOT enjoy. After my first meal, which included both of those things, I couldn’t help but think…it’s going to be a long 7 days!

I did finally find something I liked- Pelmeni. Pelmeni are amazing dumplings filled with pork or beef. YUM! Once I discovered these marvelous little balls of dough, I think I ordered them at every meal. A very close second to the Pelmeni was a starter we had while out in the country at one of our recommended restaurants- Podvorye. Podvorye is a cute wooden cabin in the village of Pavlovsk with outstanding food. We sat down at our table and were immediately served vodka. I politely declined. Next thing I know they placed the most beautiful tomatoes down on the table. But they weren’t just tomatoes-they had this awesome garlic, cheese and herb mixture spread on top. I could have eaten just those for lunch. Too bad, I had to share.

So as you can see, I ended up faring pretty well in the food department….who needs caviar and vodka when you have pelmeni and tomatoes!

I recently enjoyed a day exploring the Norwegian Fjords by traveling via Norway in a Nutshell. This full day journey, involving trains, ferries and a bus will delight any one with its breathtaking views of the fjords. Tiny villages, some consisting of only two or three homes, dot the coastline. Occasionally, I would spot a lone house perched on a cliff and wonder how they survive so isolated.

Countless waterfalls plunge into the sea. The captain of our ferry pulled up along a waterfall and everyone was served a cold, sparkling glass of water. It was the best water I ever tasted but, I must admit, I enjoyed a different drink along the journey even more...

We had a nice stop in Flam (a gorgeous town in Norway) for forty five minutes before continuing on. There were several buildings surrounding the port and when we wandered past the restaurant and souvenir shop we could not believe our eyes when we spotted a brewery.

The Aegir Brewery is a stave designed, barn-like building. The interiors featured wood carvings everywhere and stone floors as if a Viking designed it himself. At the bar, we were delighted to meet the bartender/owner and discover he is a fellow American from Buffalo. He presented us with a tasting board of six micro-brews. With only about thirty minutes before our departure we did our best to sit back and enjoy each sip. The Indian Pale Ale was the clear winner in our group. We would have loved to have spent the whole afternoon there but, alas, we must continue on.

Everyone always wants to go to St. Petersburg during the White Nights Festival (May 15- July 15th), Munich during Oktoberfest, and Croatia during the summer months but I am here to tell you that I have done it and if you do not like crowds (like the one you see here of people waiting hours to enter the Hermitage Museum), you will not want to be in these places at these times! I have been to St. Petersburg over 10 times and I must say that some of my most enjoyable times have been during the winter months. Mind you, I live in Florida so Russia in the winter is a BIG step out of my comfort zone but well worth it.

We always think that we have to be part of an epic moment to have a memory but I can assure you that whether you see Catherine Palace July 1st or January 1st, you will still be impressed. Better yet, don't you want to be able to walk through the Old Town of Dubrovnik on your own- not with 10,000 of your not-so-close friends? Europe, as do most places, has its high season (when airfare and hotel rates are through the roof) during the summer months (May- September).

If you want to save some money, not have to fight with crowds and ultimately have an island such as Hvar to yourself then I suggest booking your trips during the less peak times, such as October- April.

I think we can all agree that eating inside or anywhere near an airplane is, to put it mildly, an unpleasant experience. On domestic flights in the US, I feel outright insulted when the flight attendants offer to sell me a pre-packaged snack. I would not want it even if it was free. Obviously, on transatlantic flights you get hungry and I admit that I have eaten my share of the “chicken or beef” dinners. I do so as fast as I can so as not to expose the meal to the germ-filled air being circulated through the aircraft. Does that sound neurotic or reasonable?

The airports usually do not offer anything better than fast-food chains or candy stores. You can imagine my surprise and joy when I recently flew through Munich and fell on an organic bakery. As I was wandering through the airport trying to kill time, I saw what I at first thought a mirage - beautiful huge loafs of artisanal sourdough bread lined up above a counter full of fresh vegetables. The walls around were covered with inscriptions spelling bread in several languages, from German and English to Italian, Hebrew, Arabic or Russian. And above it all: Aran Bakery and Coffeehouse.

The nice man behind the counter put together a wonderful open-face sandwich for me with a delicious spread of fresh cucumber and chives. You can choose from many different spreads, or order a soup and end the meal with some of their pastry creations. I never felt more civilized at an airport than when I was delaying the dreaded departure for the gate and savoring each sip of my wonderful foamy latte.

You must do it once in your life. This was my second time but it may as well have been the first. The first was in Palm Springs but that experience, while exhilarating, pales in comparison to my second “first” time.

We woke before dawn. In the darkness of the room it was impossible to tell what time it was but the alarm was buzzing and the alarm clock never lies. You see there were no windows in the room and at the flick of the switch you had no idea if it was four a.m. or four p.m. But a night or two in a cave is a story for another time. My feet hit the cold stone floor- and it WAS very cold. Later that day there would be a blizzard but as we peeked out into the dark morning, stars twinkled in the sky as the crisp cold air enveloped us.

A 30 minute ride took us out of town and to an area that could have been in the desert west. As the sun barely touched the horizon the outline of an old horse drawn cart sat on a ridge just above us. And then the whoosh! The powerful noise and heat were overwhelming, exciting and welcoming as the warmth sent the cold air wafting away.


On the ground lay the fabric to reach from top to bottom of a nine-story building. An organized web of ropes and lines reached along to a wicker basket the Wicked Witch of the West could have filled with 200 Totos.

We met our fellow travelers over a cup of steaming coffee and a biscotti. Australians, Spaniards and Japanese made up the majority of flyers that day. The excitement was palpable and when it came time to clamber over the side of the gigantic picnic basket that hovers below the balloon the handlers had to hold the over-enthusiastic among us to avoid the rush. Every possible assistance is given when climbing in but you have to have at least some agility and therefore the trip is not for everyone.

In no time at all a very slight shake of the basket, a burst of hot air into the balloon and we had left the ground and the total silence of the Cappadocian morning was deafening. It was spectacular – more spectacular than words can ever describe. The flight takes you over the inaccessible valleys and canyons of the region. The pilots are incredible and adeptly maneuver the balloon dropping down to almost touch the canyon floor and sides and then soaring aloft again over scenery that belongs on another planet. There are always other balloons in the area, sometimes lots of them. Seeing them in this ethereal setting makes you feel as you though are in a movie.

The light changes as the sun rises into the sky and all too soon the pilot has decided on the landing site – this does depend on the weather conditions but is always a safe procedure. The fact that you actually have to crouch down into the basket during landing should not concern anyone. It is the balloon equivalent to fastening your seat belt for landing. The basket lightly brushes the dusty ground and comes to a stop and it is over. Champagne and orange juice are shared and you receive the statutory certificate proving that you have been there and done that. But you will not need a certificate tucked away in the back of a drawer to remind you of one of the most fantastic experiences you will have during your travels. The experience comes at a price you will not regret it.

While visiting Prague over the summer, I had the opportunity to visit the famous Estates Theater-where Mozart performed Don Giovanni. The theater is beautiful and a definite must see while visiting the city. More than the theaters beauty or history, the real excitement for me was being taken around by the maestro of the theater, Mr. Pavel Vondruska-a sweet man who just makes the experience that much better.

Mr. Vondruska is a famous actor and musician in the Czech Republic who has starred in numerous feature films such as the Oscar winning film-Kolja. Pavel's career started many years ago as the conductor for the Estates Theater. Pavel invites his guests to admire the beauty of the theater and to fall in love with it- just as he has!

After he showed us around, we went backstage to see what happens behind the scenes. At the end of the tour, he took us to his little secret place-a room where the actor and actresses go after the performances. There was, of course, a piano and he sat down and played one last piece for us. Not only were there goose bumps but tears when he was finished.

Mr. Vondruska hugged each of us as we walked out and it is a memory I will forever have in my mind. It truly was a fantastic experience and I recommend anyone who goes to Prague to do it…it’s one you will never forget!

I must confess, I am not a huge opera fan but I was blown away by the design of the new Oslo Opera House. Less than a year old, the Opera House is the pride and joy of Norwegians and rightfully so. This masterpiece of architecture is located on the edge of the Oslofjord, appearing to rise out of the water. On either side of the large glass atrium, the roof slopes down right to the ground allowing people to walk up the angled slopes to the rooftop. Here they can witness breathtaking views of the city and Oslofjord. Many people take full advantage of this, even having picnics on the roof on sunny days.

Inside the Opera House is no less stunning, featuring a minimalistic design. The walls are a study in contrasting textures, one being stark white with numerous geometric shapes to represent glaciers and ice crystals and the opposite wall is textured curving oak with various finishes. Another wall is floor to ceiling glass, offering great views of Oslofjord.
There are numerous stages, vary in size. The main theater features oak walls and orange cushioned seats, which is in stark contrast to its stage curtain which resembles crinkled tin foil.

The Opera House also features a fantastic restaurant, Argent. The restaurant is designed all in white, with light fixtures streaming down from the ceiling that change colors ever few minutes. The food and service is top notch!

The Opera House will be set in an even more spectacular setting once the underground tunnel is completed and the six lane highway situated right next to the opera house will be re-directed underground. A park will be designed in the place of the existing highway.

The Oslo Opera House is truly a masterpiece of architectural design.

The New7Wonders Foundation, which focuses on the documentation and conservation of monuments of international importance worldwide, has started a campaign called ‘The Official New7Wonders of Nature’ in which some 260 natural sites are competing to make it to the ‘Top 77” which are separated in 7 categories such as ‘Mountains and Volcanoes’, ‘Islands’, ‘Seascapes’, and ‘Caves, rock formations, and valleys’. Only 3 candidates in each category (a total of 21) will be short-listed until finally, in 2011, the winners in each of the seven categories will be declared. Everyone has a chance to vote for their preferred natural site on the foundation’s website where a live ranking is posted and regularly updated.

Interestingly, besides popular natural wonders and tourist attractions like the Galapagos Islands, the Niagara Falls, and the Great Barrier Reef, many “new” sites, tucked away in countries which until recently were generally closed to tourists, are still largely unknown and waiting to be discovered by foreign travelers. Moreover, visiting these spectacular natural sites also offers authentic cultural experiences and some remarkable historic monuments. The Belogradchik Rocks are also the site of an impressive medieval fortress, while the Lake Ohrid (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is famous for the historic towns and monasteries dotting its shores.

Here are the natural sites in Central and Eastern Europe which are currently occupying the top 11 spots in some of the categories:

1. Landscapes and Ice Formations – the Masurian Lake District in north-eastern Poland
2. Mountains and Volcanoes – the Vlasic Mountain in central Bosnia and Herzegovina
3. Caves, Rock Formations, and Valleys – the Belogradchik Rock Formations in north-western Bulgaria, the Djavolja Varos (Devil’s Town) Rock Formations in southern Serbia, and the Pravcice Gate Rock Formation in Bohemia in the Czech Republic;
4. Forests, National Parks, and Nature Reserves – the Bialowieza Primeval Forest located in the border area between Poland and Belarus, the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in south-western Germany, and the Retezat National Park in central Romania
5. Lakes, Rivers, and Waterfalls – the Danube, the Lake Ohrid between Albania and Macedonia and Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia

You can imagine the worries I sometimes face being that I work for a company that sells and promotes luxury products. In times like these, where people are cutting back and scaling down, I sometimes think- how can we stay afloat? The answer is easy, time is not something you can save or cut back on.

You can wait until next year to buy that new Mercedes but you cannot wait a year to take your wife on that 25th anniversary cruise around the world. Time does not stand still and because of this travel does not either! Since we all have just one life to live, we all must make it a priority to fill it with as many experiences and opportunities as possible- in good and bad times.

Travel is invigorating, uplifting, and most of all travel is a shared experience between families, friends and cultures- what could be more rewarding? You may need to cut a lot of things out of your life during tough times but please keep traveling.

You may not look back 30 years from now and be upset that you switched from premium cable to basic but you will be upset that you did not take your wife on that 25th anniversary cruise.

The Moscow Metro is the second most used metro system in the world. It is also famous for its incomparable beauty. A couple of weeks ago a friend of mine asked me: “I was impressed by the metro in Paris and Madrid – so grand! But I hear that Moscow’s is the prettiest. Is it true?”

Well, if you are asking my opinion: Yes, it is. The Moscow Metro is absolutely magnificent. Each station is incredibly unique- many of them with outstanding ornate design. And there is a little bit for every taste: From sculptures, mosaics or frescoes to super modern stations. It’s absolutely fascinating!

Another interesting aspect about taking the Moscow Metro is seeing how the Russians are so nonchalant about all that beauty surrounding them! Maybe the biggest metropolitan city in Europe is too busy to take a second look.

And exactly for that reason you should be careful while in the Metro. The Russians show no mercy when they are in a hurry! When I was there in November, I felt like the people in our group could have easily got lost from one another if we were not paying attention. It is very important to be determined and move quickly through the crowd. And once you are inside the actual station, wait until the interval between trains and you will have a little bit of time to admire the beauty, take a look around, and get good pictures… Until then the next train comes.

I have so much respect for parents who have the stamina and patience to travel with their small children. Dividing your attention between bags, strollers, passports and children who run around, throw temper tantrums or annoy other travelers, seems like no vacation at all. I have to trust that experiencing a new destination and seeing it through your child’s eyes must outweigh all the above. Here is my contribution to make your trip easier: a few tips for touring Prague with your children.

Prague is so picturesque that your kids may at first believe you took them to Disney Land. Even the usual sites like the Prague Castle, the Charles Bridge and the Jewish Quarter are so impressive that your child will surely enjoy them as much as you will. But when you are up at the Castle, you may want to stop by at the Toy Museum. This wonderful museum has a large collection of toys from Ancient Greece, through medieval wooden toys to the first barbies. If you have daughters that like sparkly things, you should not miss the Loreto, a monastery near the Castle, with a nice collection of heavily adorned ritual objects including the famous diamond monstrance. Before you leave this side of the Vltava River, you could take a short funicular ride to the Petrin Hill, a wonderful public park where you will find a replica of the Eiffel Tower (made for the World Exhibition in 1891) and a small Mirror Maze – it never gets old seeing yourself in various distorting mirrors.

Two sites for the more scholarly children: the Technical Museum on the Castle side of the town and the National Museum on the other side. The Technical Museum has several collections but the most impressive one is the one about transportation as it contains real historic planes, steam locomotives, cars and bicycles. The National Museum, located on top of the Wenceslas Square, is despite its impressive and serious neo-renaissance building probably the quirkiest museum in Prague. While they have many interesting temporary exhibitions, their main focus has always been the Natural History and Anthropology. Whenever I went there as a child, I felt transported back to times when geeky European scientists and explorers traveled the continents and brought their exotic discoveries back to the enthusiastic public eager to learn about the far worlds. The most popular item in the zoological collection is the huge whale skeleton that hangs from the ceiling above the displays of other animals. Although I find the museum interesting, be warned that the zoological collection consists mainly of dissected animals, so it may not be suitable for every child. The Prague Zoo is a good alternative and a trip there can be made by boat from the city center.

Generally, I always try to pack for a trip days (if not weeks) before, so I’m not scrambling at the last minute. The one thing that always holds me up is -“what shoes do I bring?” I love shoes, but let’s face it…you can’t wear just any shoes while in Eastern Europe or Russia. Although when you get over there and see what the natives wear, you might think differently.

With the cobblestone streets and the amount of walking you do, it’s best to go with comfort over looks. I did just that when shopping for warm, slip resistant shoes for my trip.

While in Ukraine and Russia last December, I was prepared for any type of weather (or so I thought). After starting my trip in Kiev (with no problems), I went to St. Petersburg where the weather was cold and snowy, though absolutely beautiful! On our day out to Catherine Palace and Pavlovsk, I fell twice (yes, twice!). Can you say tourist? So much for slip resistant shoes. I was completely embarrassed. I couldn’t figure out how our guides walked around in 2 inch stiletto boots when I could barely get around with my safe for grandma, military proof, said to be slip resistant, FLAT boots. I guess it helps that they do it quite often.

And then it happened—one of our guides went down. I felt so bad for her, but at the time I was secretly happy to know that it could happen to anyone.

When in Budapest, a great place to visit (and shop – which I love!) is just a 30-minute drive from the city center: the town of Szentendre, where many artists work and live. The town is adorable, and there is a ton of interesting stuff to see and do there.

One of the most interesting things about shopping in Szentendre is that many times you can buy straight from the artist. So as I was strolling around (I was looking to buy a purse), I happen to see an artist carving a box that would be for sale later. Fascinated by how easy that was for him, I went into his shop to check out some of his work.

He had a lot of interesting wood work. Some of it was his, some were not. I had already selected some of his work to buy when I caught myself eyeing this very cute Christmas-themed music box. As I debated whether to buy it or not (the box was not his personal work), the artist offered to carve whatever I wanted on the box. I just loved the idea, and had him carve my name, my husband’s name, the town name and the year. It took him no longer than a minute to do it (I barely had time to take a picture!).

And before I knew it, I had such a personal Christmas box! Oh, and by the way, I also ended up finding a great purse!

I guess the fascination with fortresses comes from my childhood filled with books like ‘Ivanhoe’ by Walter Scott and ‘Crusaders’ by Henryk Sienkiewicz. Having the chance to travel extensively through the Balkans and study this region’s long and often violent history has been a real eye-opener in terms of the abundance and diversity of medieval fortifications in the area. This is not surprising, considering the region’s geographic location between Europe and Asia and at the epicenter of centuries-long clashes for political, economic, and religious domination.

When the Roman Empire conquered the Balkan Peninsula, its legions built a network of fortified garrisons located at strategic points on the borders, alongside the main trade routes (such as the Via Egnatia which crossed the entire peninsula from the Adriatic coast to Byzantium), and near mountain passes with commercial and military importance. Some of these ancient forts later grew to become settlements and towns which still exist; others were destroyed during the following ‘barbaric’ invasions; while others still were used as the foundations for later medieval fortifications.

During its greatest territorial expansion, the Byzantine Empire incorporated most of the Balkans and many of the fortresses still dotting the region today were erected in this period. Most impressive, without a doubt, were the defenses of the city of Constantinople itself. Back then, the capital of the Byzantine Empire was surrounded by thick walls on all sides which protected it from attacks from both land and sea, and which withstood numerous sieges before the Ottomans, using massive cannons, finally took the city. When visiting Istanbul, a tour of the land portion of the medieval walls, which is very well preserved, gives a unique historic perspective of this great city. For anyone interested in the epic siege of Constantinople by the Ottoman army and its dramatic fall, the book ‘1453’ by Roger Crowley makes a great reading.

Elsewhere throughout the region, impressive medieval fortresses are waiting to be discovered. Few of them are as well preserved as the castles in Germany, France, or England simply because once the Ottomans had the Balkan Peninsula conquered, they, with some exceptions, had no use for the fortifications which were either destroyed (in order not to be used as bases for local insurgencies) or fell into disrepair. Regions which at that time were under Austro-Hungarian or Venetian control, like Transylvania in Romania or the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia and Montenegro, had their castles and fortresses not only maintained, but also modernized and expanded. In Romania, Sighisoara’s Old Town and the fortified churches in Biertan and Prejmer are not to be missed. In Croatia, Dubrovnik’s famous Old Town has a jewel of a medieval fortress, but the Venetian forts of Zadar, Sibenik, and Trogir are also nicely preserved as are the walls of Kotor and Budva in Montenegro further south along the Adriatic coast.

In Bulgaria, Serbia, Macedonia, and Albania, which remained under Ottoman domination for centuries, only the largest and most strategic strongholds were maintained and still survive. In Bulgaria, these are the majestic Baba Vida fortress on the Danube River and the Tsarevets Castle Hill in Tarnovo. In Serbia’s capital Belgrade, the Kalemegdan is a true medieval citadel located on a hill at the confluence of the Danube and the Sava rivers. In Albania, the Kruje Fortress successfully withstood numerous sieges before being taken by the Ottomans and the citadels of Gjirokastra and Berati are very much worth a visit for anyone interested in the local history and culture.

In summary, one does not have to be a medieval warfare fanatic in order to pay a visit to some of the impressive fortresses scattered around the Balkan Peninsula. Unlike other historic and architectural monuments like palaces and monasteries, these sites, which were often the stages of bloody battles, give a different perspective of the people who once inhabited these areas and for whom defending their families and homes from invaders was simply a way of life.